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Email Questions and Answers 2003 - 2007

 


Hello,

Is it possible to exchange some of the sheets of my dome to be translucid ?

It is.

Do I have to unmount the dome ?

Yes.

How easy is it ?

You can replace a whole panel. Order the same panel from Shelter Systems. 1) Arrange the replacement panel over top of the damaged panel so that it is in the same orientation.2) Remove only one clip from your dome being careful not to disrupt the layering sequence of the panels on your dome. If you can not get the clip off use a pliers and brake the ring part of the clip (you will receive 4 extra Heavy Duty Grip Clips with each replacement panels). 3) Take your time to carefully slide out the corner of your damaged panel and insert your replacement panel into the same layering sequence as that of the damaged panel. 4) Now with all layers in the same order and orientation as before; gather these tightly around the male clip and slip over the female clip as described below. When many layers are involved as is the case with the corners of the windows, attaching the female clip can be difficult; practicing on scraps and making the layers warm with the sun or heat lamp (be careful not to melt the covering by getting it to hot) can help.

Thanks

Denis

Denis

I would print a photo of the dome from our web site and then mark on it which panels you want to replace. Then let us know which you need. Note that most of the panels come in pairs. Examine the ones on your dome. The replacement panels are $65 each.

You will need to remove all of the poles and remove all tension from around the panel you want to replace.

Bob Gillis



Bob,
The guys have set up the Cave and are figuring out ways to use it.
It took them a bit to get it set up.  Finally got to admit they didn't look at the picture in the instructions.  Were trying to put the poles inside.  Then the lightbulb went off and they got it.
 
They love it.  So light and so easy to set up.  Have not used on a job yet but I expect that will happen soon.  Again, will send job photos when available.
 
Tks and Rgds,  WD Smith-DurtWurks

Hi I was wondering if it is possible to print on your material and have you ever done it? I would like to put advertisments on the side of the yurts. Please forward the reply to my e-mail address go_flo47@hotmail.com thanking you in advance Florian Gaudreau

Yes. Be sure to test the ink, dye or paint to see which will hold best for you. You can also have banners printed which you then tie to the clips of the dome.

Bob Gillis


I really admire the technology you folks have put together. Thank you.

I am thinking to purchase one of your 14’ bubble domes to use as a meditation hut. I live in southern Maine and need a small place out of the house to practice my Buddhist meditations away from the chaos of 2 young boys.

I have a question about what the limitations might be around “decorating” the inside of the dome, particularly as regards hanging things. Typically a Tibetan Buddhist retreat hut would have a few hangings of pictures of Buddha on the walls and light brocades around the ceiling edge. I have a few pictures that are printed on vinyl like the signs you see at conventions. The pictures are about 2 X 3.

What are the restrictions to hanging things from the inside of your domes? There must be a weight limit and I imagine balancing the load also comes into questions at some point. Also, do you have any ideas about the best way to attach the hangings? Would your grip clips work?

Thanks

Ken

Hi Ken

There is a clip inside your dome were the poles cross on the outside of the dome. Each inside clip has two holes. You can hang about 4 lb. from each clip on the inside of the 14' dome.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


Your questions: BubbleDome for Fine Craft Trade Show
> I have a couple of questions about trade-show usage of the BubbleDome.
>
> First, from the web site I understand the widest part of the
> BubbleDome is 10 feet, and the interior footprint is about a foot
> less. This would allow it to fit into a standard 10' by 10' tradeshow
> booth without bulging into the next-door neighbor's booth, correct?

It should and they have been used at trade-shows with the 10 by 10' standard.
>
> Would the open format allow the BubbleDome to tuck into a 10-foot
> wide by 5-foot deep booth area? The reason I ask is that I may get
> such a small booth at a special price as a participant in the
> "Emerging Artist" category at the ACRE trade show. I will know by next
> Monday if this is the case.

No, but you could set it up as a 1/2 of the dome rather then the 3/4 open arch form. Both of these configurations require some clip removal.
>
> Is the material fire retardant or can it be made so? Once you let me
> know, I will check with the Las Vegas Convention Center about the
> rules regarding such material, and particularly whether they would
> permit lights to be hung from the poles, given their proximity to the
> material.
>
The covering is FR yes.

> Finally, from which poles can lights be clamped, and how much weight
> can the poles bear? I will be purchasing fairly lightweight
> floodlights, probably low-voltage halogen and/or maybe LED lighting,
> and would like it to be clamped along the ceiling if possible.

You can hang lights on the inside at about 5 lb. pre clip (there is a clip on the inside of the dome at each pole crossing. The outside pole crossing can alternatively hold about 5 lb. Both the poles and the covering can melt if they get too hot.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis

 


Hi I was wondering if it is possible to print on your material and have you ever done it? I would like to put advertisments on the side of the yurts. Please forward the reply to my e-mail address go_flo47@hotmail.com thanking you in advance Florian Gaudreau

Yes. Be sure to test the ink, dye or paint to see which will hold best for you. You can also have banners printed which you then tie to the clips of the dome.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


On Dec 1, 2006

Hello!
We are a group of astronomers teaching astronomy in schools and colleges in India. We are looking for portable domes which can be used as mobile planetariums. Is it possible to use your domes for digital projection. Kindly suggest at the earliest.

Thanks!

Yes, they have been used for this.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


On Dec 3, 2006

Re: Wind Strength // Arctic Conditions

Hi Bob,

My company outfits film crews, divers, photographers and
scientists in the high arctic. It is not uncommon to have one or two
days of the fiercest winds and weather that most people have ever
experienced and we have had both the top of the line Mountain Hardwear
Space Station and the "life time guaranty" Cabela's Alaska Outfitter
Tent humbled by the conditions.

I am intrigued by your design and interested to give it a try but
was wondering whether there are any special enhancements in terms of
extra strength in the poles. If there is any extra strong option for
pole material I'd be interested in what you would suggest. My impression
from the testimonials and generally looking around your web site is that
it will probably hold up under moderate conditions and perhaps brief
intense ones but the standard design (as per your wind/snow warning)
likely would not stand up to days of intense winds. The design is simple
enough, however, that I would think that with stronger poles and
attachments that quite a stable structure could be built (albiet with
more weight).

I think that we'd start with either an 18/20 as a group tent and
an 11/14 as a sleeping tent. If we could get the 18/20 to stand up to
the elements I'd be quite interested then in the 30.

Thanks very much.

Sincerely,

Graham Dickson
Arctic Kingdom

Hi Graham

Thanks for your interest in our shelters.

I would recommend our Super Strong 16' Dome $780. This is a special order dome that uses the same diameter poles that the 18 and 20 but since it is smaller in size it is substantially stronger. You can also order a second pole set and connector set to double up the poles for even greater strength. Still in extreme winds it could fail. You may also want to get some 2" sticky back velcro to secure some of the domes shingling. I suggest we talk on the phone so the details of this are clear.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis



Date: December 14

Hi Eleanor,

Just want to tell you that our bubble dome is performing very well in tradeshows and it's actually a problem.. it distracts people from looking at the products, they look at the dome instead and say "woaa, clever!!" :)

Simon


Robert,

Will open the package and get the shelter set up tomorrow, worst case Friday.  Will advise.
 
Our use is for concrete pours during foul weather.  Additionally the shelter would protect the concrete during the critical first few hours of cure.  Not sure what the best description would be.
 
Yes, will send you some pics once we have a test application.

Tks and Rgds,  WD
 


On Oct 1, 2006

hi we are a company doing work at base in IRAQ and would like to buy 3 30 ft domes but have a few questions  how long before they can be shipped also price to AMMAN JORDAN   can a real door be installed  thank hope to hear back soon thanks.  SAM

Hi Sam

You can frame in a standard door on your end. Put up the dome and set your door with frame inside the dome so that it is plumb and the top of the frame touches the dome. Use wood to extend the door frame so that it will butt up to the domes covering on the inside of the dome from the top of the door down. You will need some one who works with wood to do this. With wood lath secure the domes covering to the door frame from the outside. Mark the poles were they extend into the door frame. Cut the poles on these marks and secure them to the door frame with an eye bolt and a connector. Cut and remove the covering that extends over the door frame leaving about 6" of covering to wrap around a lath and secure to the sides inside of the frame. Some weakness is created by attaching the dome to a rigid door in that the dome can not flex at this point in high wind.

Please forward this email along with your complete address to eleanor@shelter-systems.com so we can get you a shipping price.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


Date: September 25, 2006

I purchased a 14' dome last year and have found that i need a tent fly..You people said to use a tarp which i did but it looks kind of cheesy, I would like a fitted fly. do you have one in a sun proof material or should i just try a local canvas person?

your product stood up to 40mph winds on several occasions while other tents went down, but the rain did come through the seams in those conditions that and the condensation buildup on the inside make a fly necessary

N Cianflone

Hi N Cianflone

We do not recommend that our tents be covered with a tarp as it can cause the poles to heat up and bend excessively which will cause the shingling to be weakened. We do offer several sunshades which stretch to conform to the domes shape: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html These shades will also take some of the punch out of the wind. If you did tarp your dome and if your poles have been excessively warped by the heat I suggest you replace them to maintain the strength of your dome and the shingling. You can sometimes find this size poles at irrigation pipe supply places or we sell individual poles also.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis

Shelter Systems, 224 Walnut St, Menlo Park CA 94025
Orders & Customer Service 866-777-1066 eleanor@shelter-systems.com
http:www.DomeTents.com http:www.GripClips.com http:www.ReliefTents.com
Copyright 2006 Shelter Systems All Rights Reserved.

From: "" <nico47@excite.com>


Avain Huts
I have an unusual request for you. You may have been following the news re avian
flu. It's in Europe and edging ever closer to where I am, in Ireland.
I just got word today that the government is very likely to impose a lock-up for
all poultry in Ireland during the spring migration. I keep chickens and have
been working on breeding good lines of an old utility breed which I don't want
to loose. They are a valuable genetic resource that would be difficult and
costly to replace. So it looks like I have to bite the bullet and house them for
a period and possibly every autumn and spring in the foreseeable future.
As they are in 4 groups in small mobile units and can't be chucked
together in a house without mayhem and probably murder, I am looking for a way
to cover their individual small houses with some space around each house. The
requirement would be that they can't get out, wild birds can't get in and can't
sh** on them from above, i.e. can't infect them. Also, temperatures should not
be too extreme, especially in the high range. Having said that, it does not get
very hot here in Ireland but a polytunnel would be too hot (mine reaches 104+F
at times in spring - they'd snuff it).
I reckon I need about 13-14 ft diameter per group.

Thanks
Ute


August 22/ 06

GripClips saved my life at Burning Man a few years ago by keeping my tarps in place when all the grommets were blown out from the wind! With out the Grip Clips I had got from you I would have had no shad and I be cooked.

-Chad Mccraner


Hello!

Last year I purchased your 18’ dome for Burning Man 2005 which worked out great! I’m preparing for this year’s event and had just a couple questions:

1 Can you please tell me how many of the long poles and how many of the short poles are used for the dome? I want to make sure I’m not missing either of the lengths I’ll need once I get there this year.

40 long and 12 short.

2 Do you have a recommendation for how to secure a tarp floor to the yurt to minimize wind infiltration into the dome? Last year during the event all the wind seemed to want to blow up the tarp floor. What’s the best way of preventing this?

Fold the dome's skirt under your tarp, then weight down the the edge of the tarp with your stuff to seal it tight to the ground. Alternatively you can weight down the skirt to the out side of the dome. The winds usually come from just one general direction so concentrate your effort on that direction to start with. Wind is tenacious so you will have to be through.

Many thanks!

  Kevin


Greetings--

I am working on an art project which involves projecting images onto various
surfaces
. I have been trying to figure out how to create essentially what
you have pictured here:

http://www.shelter-systems.com/images/flubberball.jpeg

What would be the leadtime/cost involved for something like this with one
missing panel to shine the projector through?

Many thanks!
--Dave Wimsatt
Chicago, IL

Hi David

Three weeks; $500. It would be a special order and as such non-returnable. Please contact Eleanor if you want to place an order and let us know if you want it if white or translucent. I recommend white if you want to project on it (images would be seen inside and out.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis



Date: August 2, 2006

what about putting a rooftop system onto a circular strawbale structure? (16 or 20'). I am mechanically challenged but can stack bales and cover them with stucco. Climate is 4 season fairly mild ( max low ever would be about 0 maybe but it doesn't last for long) here in SW Idaho just above the Snake River. Wind could be a larger concern but I was planning to set the roof top to the inside edge of the bales and put a false edge kind of like a low rim on the outside edge of the bales so the roof itself wouldn't be exposed to direct wind. I am counting on the round shape and wind deflection to work in my favor here.
Barbara

On Aug 3, 2006

Barbara

It may work. I like your idea of a wind deflector rim. What about snow? Can you heat it to melt snow or remove it for winter?

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis

our snow comes in a few light dustings - haven't seen more than a couple light fluffy inches at most- great improvement over the 3' of wet cement that fell one night when I lived in the Cascades.  I would have it heated to a min of 50 degrees ( with either propane or electric) when I am not home and crank up the woodstove when I am home.
Barbara

Sounds like the snow is not a problem; if you do get snow make sure it is brushed or melted off.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis



Date: July 30, 2006

Dear Shelter Systems,
  I have recently build two 17' radius domes to live in a burning man. I have now reached a point where I need to cover these structures. I have taken note that parachutes are not good as they catch the wind. Contractors tarps are my next idea but I thought I would email and see if you had any suggestions or had material available for purchase that would cover these structures. Your website is very impressive and it is clear you understand the conditions of Black Rock city.
 
Thank you in advance for all your help.
Alex

Hi Alex

I would suggest that you use construction grade tarps which you can get from home depo or even the regular blue tarps. You could also use our material: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html

I would then get a bunch (hard to have too many) of our General Purpose (Heavy Duty if you are using the heavy tarps) Grip Clips and Grip Clip Pro.

Then using the clips attach your tarps or our covering from the ground up holding and pulling the materials tight. finish with the top (this way you domes will end up waterproof and wind tight since you have shingled them. You can also use the clips to gather material so it will not flap in the wind.

Send us a photo and have fun.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


Is there any way to reduce the size of my dome packed up for storage or transport?

Yes; you can use a house vacuum to compress your packed dome to about 1/2 its volume; roll and pack up your dome as in the instruction manual; warp in its wrapper it came with; tape the long seam of the wrapper; tape any holes in the wrapper. twist one end tight and then fold and tape this twisted end to the package; insert your vacuum hose in the other end twist and tape it tight; turn on your vacuum; with the vacuum on push on the package and it will compress to about 1/2 its original size; now tape around and around your package with the vacuum still on (this is to hold the package compressed when you remove the vacuum. now remove the vacuum and tape the end of your package closed.


Hi,

I have a 24ft diameter parachute that I made into a dome for Burning Man using 3 pairs of arches. I am not happy with that design and want to do something different. I saw your domes and I am very intrigued. I like the way they are designed. You guys have done a very good job.

I am interested in making my own dome and buying some of the parts from you.

How many Connectors do you need for a 20 Diameter Yurt Dome? They come in pairs?

How many poles do you need for a 20 Diameter Yurt Dome? Are there two sizes of poles?

Thanks,
Mike Brisbin

Hi Mike

We do not offer a kit or plans for our domes as they have proved to complicated for people to build from plans. However, we do offer a kit for our Shelter Frame http://www.shelter-systems.com/shelter-frame2.html/FrameSet.htm for $75 non-returnable which include the needed Grip Clips. If you want to order this kit please place your order with the order desk 866 777 1066

Bob Gillis


Hi,
 
I'm heading out to the playa and need to get some general pupose grip clips for some 70% aluminet shade cloth I have. Which would you recommend, and how far apart should I put them on the cloths.
 
I have two pieces for two separate shelters:
 
70% Aluminet Shade Curtain
14'wide x18' long
 
70% Aluminet Shade Curtain
21'wide x36' long
 
Thanks!
--
Jeff Wood

Jeff

I would use the General Purpose and place them about 6' apart along the edges of your shades. For better griping sandwich in a 6" by 6" square of fabric, shade or tarp with each Grip Clip to give extra thickness to the shade were the Grip Clips are clipped. You can also use the Grip Clips to secure your shades in their mid sections to prevent them from lifting up or flapping in the wind.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


On May 15, 2006

Dear Bob,
 
I am a a gardening interested doctor from Sweden and have just ordered a green house in glass measuring 371 x 605 cm and 305 cm in hight ( classicum.se )
The problem in Sweden is gardening or protecting plants during winter time.
Most people w greenhouses uses bubble plastic which they hang inside the house to isolate when temp drop. Its quite laborious and not very practical nor effective.
Maybe its possible to use one of your tents inside the greenhouse during winter?
What would you suggest ? Do you have a good isolating cover for such a use or maybe
its possible to complement your cover with just placing bubble plastic over the tent ?
 
If you could present a good solution there might be a market for this kind of use in nordic countries.
 
Best greetings
 
Peter Wersäll
Stockholm, Sweden

Hi Peter

Seems like a good idea to me. There would be several heating advantages to putting one of our smaller greenhouses inside your greenhouse. The most obvious would be that you could heat the space inside the smaller space much easier than your larger house. Come summer you could fold up the dome and use your full house. The other would be the blocking of wind and cold by your outer house would again make it easier to to heat the inner smaller house. We also make liners for our domes that create a 2" dead air space between the liner and outer cover. Dead air is an excellent insulator. Which makes for cost saving in heating.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


May 14, 200

Bob,

I was wondering if you could help in my investigations.

We are looking to develop an eco-friendly luxury tented camp in the New Zealand Alps and are looking for potential manufacturers of tents that could be used in the winter. The idea is that we will build wooden decks to put the tents on and then construct a strong tent on top of this platform.

The main criteria will be:-

1. Strength - be able to withstand heavy snowfall and to be used continuously for a number of years
2. Warmth - they will need to be good at retaining heat and fire proof to allow for a wood or oil burning stove to be installed.
3. Spacious - the general idea would be to include a four poster bed, storage, maybe even an armchair.
4. Attractive - the idea is for luxury in a tent whilst skiing, so they would need to sit comfortably in the nature snow bound mountainous setting, a window section to appreciate the views would also be ideal.

In the original stage we would be looking to have between 15 and 30 built, but hopefully this would develop over time - please could you advise if this is something that your company would be interested in helping design & build?

Thanks,

Craig Macara.


Hello Craig

1) Perhaps our best tent for you is our new 14' Yurt Dome with a heavy duty pole set. This is by far our strongest tent. Still there is a limit as to how much snow it can hold. The dome is $620 The HD pole and connector set is $60 extra.

2) They are FR and easy to heat. They like all tents will cool off after you turn off your stove.

3) See for your self if a 14' diameter 7' high dome would be large enough for you: http://www.shelter-systems.com/sizes.html

People often ask how many people can sit, sleep or stand in a certain size Shelter Systems' yurt or dome. Study the drawings below to make size and volume comparisons of our different domes.

You can also mark a full-size circle on the pavement. Have a friend hold to the ground a string equal in length to one half the diameter of the dome you are wondering about. Walk around your friend, keeping the string tight. Use chalk or small rocks to mark a circle "drawn" by the end of the string. After you get your circle marked ,put a sleeping bag, cot, chair, table, etc. inside the circle. You can also draw objects in the circle. Invite some friends over to size up your "dome." Draw some other sizes on the ground and compare.
How to Visualize Interior Space Size

The best way to get an idea of the space inside the dome is to print out a picture of the dome. Then mark a circle on the ground or pavement with chalk or small stones that is the diameter of your Yurt Dome by having a friend hold a cord that is 1/2 the diameter of your Yurt Dome to the ground while you walk around him keeping the cord taught and marking the ground. Next have your friend stand in the circle while you back away from him holding the picture of your Yurt Dome at arms length till the Yurt Dome's diameter in the picture matches the diameter of the the circle you have marked on the ground. Now you can move the picture, keeping it at arms length, over top of your friend and it's base will match the circle. Your photo will be to scale with your friend. You can have him move about inside this "dome" and get a clear idea how much interior space is inside.

4) This is your call but we feel they are beautiful and being white in snow is the best. Our standard 14' dome has 4 clear vinyl windows.

Bob Gillis


On May 12, 2006

Subject: moveable chicken coop

I wonder if amidst all your designs you have one suitable for use as a movable chicken coop?

Joe

Any of our domes can serve as a movable chicken coop. I am not sure how well they would work to keep out a raccoon. That would have to be tested.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


May 4, 2006

Hello again Eleanor,

I don't have time to set up the tent before we head out. But as a precaution
I do need to check to make sure that all I need to set up the tent is in the
package, # of poles, universal connector - if there is one, etc. 

As soon as possible can you send me a list of what is needed for the 20 foot
dome and I will check against actual contents. This is the best I can do at
this last minute.

I appreciate your help,

Mark

Mark

With your dome you should have received 40 long poles and 12 short, the covering with 16 stakes, a bag of extra parts (clips, cord, binder clips,extra connectors and two vent tubes) and instruction manual. You will need gloves, eye protection and a hammer (you can use a rock) to put up your dome. It is best to have one other person help the first time you put up the dome. If possible print out or at least look over the online manual since it is much more detailed and updated than the manual that ships with the dome: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


On Apr 26, 2006

20' dome...

how much weight can the support poles handle. could i hang from the top one ?

About 10 - 15 lb. at each hub.

(imagine an opening in the canvas, and i can reach the connector there)

No need the clips inner components have holes to hang from.

will the dome start to bow/flex when hanging lightweight items?

No.

how about a lamp? a plant? stereo speakers??

Yes, but I would keep it under 10 lb. or so but you can simply try and find out.

thanks!


On Apr 26, 2006, at 7:13 PM, Shannon Goolsbee wrote:

Hi,
 
I'm looking into your domes for a semi-permanent work space in Fiji. I have a  few questions I would much appreciate if you could answer.
 
1) I'm curious how your ripstop fabric stacks up against other tent coverings, particularly vinyl tarp coverings.

Each has some advantages:
The vinyl most often will last in the full sun longer. Our covering UV stabilized to last in worst conditions about 3 years (we guarantee it for 1.5 years). Vinyl can last up to 10 depending on the quality. Vinyl out gasses (smells) and is usually more prone to mildew sticking to it. Depending on the thickness is more prone to puncture. The vinyl is stretchy and will not provide the tensile stability we need to make our domes. The vinyl is heavier and more bulky. The vinyl is more expensive. For these and other reasons we are very pleased with our covering.

Have you had it tested for tensile strength and puncture resistance? If so, what numbers did you get back and who tested it for you?

TENSILE STRENGTH 150 Lbs. Warp, 135 Lbs. Fill (ASTM D–1682 Grab)
TEAR STRENGTH 35 Lbs Warp, 33 lbs Fill (ASTM D-751, Tongue)
BURSTING STRENGTH 200 P.S.I. (ASTM D-751, Mullen)

You can not tear it with your hands even if you start the tear with a knife.
 
2) Do your domes have a history of withstanding hurricanes?

They do not and we advise that customers take them down to weather most hurricanes.

Do you have customers that you know of who have had domes that survived prolonged high winds?

We do not recommend our domes for prolonged strong winds. Although they are quit strong and resilient in most normal winds.
 
3) Will the "shingled" approach of the panels prevent rain penetration that is driven sideays or even upwards by gusts of wind?

This would depend on the strength of the wind. The shingling can be glued (silicon rubber) shut.
 
4) How is the system anchored into the ground?

I comes with 14 1' long DuraPeg stakes see manual: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html
 
5) Is the material breathable?

No but the shelter is by the shingling.
 
6) How does it hold up to mold and mildew?

None of the components will rot or mildew. Dirt that my get on it can and if storied you should make sure it is dry; however even under wet storage the covering will not itself mildew.
 
7) Is it available in dark green or camoflouge?

No, but you can paint it. Test your paint first.
 
Thank you for your time.
 
Regards,
Shannon Goolsbee


On Apr 20, 2006

are the grip clips "permanently" attached to the shingles?

Yes, but they can be removed by by hand if you were to choose to do so (not recommended except for repair or to modify the dome)

are the connectors "permanently" attached to the grip/clip/tarp,

Yes, but you could remove them if you chose (not recommended).

and when stored?

They stay attached.

i'm just curious how to assemble. do i need to thread the cord through the connector or grip clip (it appears the cord goes right through the connector -- is that how things attach during setup?

No, you bend the poles and insert them into the pre-attached connectors.

or -- if that piece is attached and stored with the tarp then i see how it don't need dissembling. otherwise i'm not sure what needs attaching/removal during setup/strike.

You just add or subtract the poles.

(i'm looking at the shingling.html and manual pages).

thanks!


On Apr 17, 2006

Which Grip Clips do you recommended for the black rock dessert, and the Burning Man event. I would be using them with heavy duty silver tarps. Are the general purpose ones good enough, or do you recommend the heavy duty because of the high wind? Thanks for the help and can’t wait to use this product.  
 
Rhianna

Both sizes will grip your silver tarps. The HD is easier to attach and to grip multiple layers, since it is bigger and has a looser fit. As far as the wind: it all depends on how many you use to support a given area. The spacing of the HD can be farther apart say 6' while the GP say 5' apart. Now this spacing is a general idea and will generally work; there are many other considerations: how strong the wind, what type of supports will the Grip Clips be tied to, what angle is the tarp to the wind, will the tarps be under elastic support, etc. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.


On Apr 12, 2006,

OK, the support poles are on the outside, canvas on the inside...

is there a way to "hang" stuff (on the inside) to decorate ?

Yes:

When you go to tie in the net doors, divider and and the floor a paper clip (large is best) or small bent peice of wire will be helpfull in threading their attaching cords to the inside clip holes on the dome. See manual for photo: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html the clip on the left is the inner clip of the dome; the clip on the right is the accessory with cord attached. The paper clip is used to pull the accessory cord through the dome's inner clip hole. The cord is then knotted. Although the threading can be done with out the paper clip tool it makes it easier.


On Apr 8, 2006

Dear Shelter Systems:

I am interested in your yurt/dome shelters (either the 14' or 18') for my back yard to use as a place to do healing work (and perhaps some shamanic drumming and dancing).

I know that you recommended putting it on the ground rather than a deck, and that sounds good but I have a question. When it rains we can get up to 2 inches of water in parts of the yard where the yurt-dome would be. Truth be told, that would be ANYWHERE in our yard. We live in the Sacramento Valley at 0 degrees sea level.

Before we put up the shelter, we need some landscaping done in our yard -- i.e. grading and drainage, and we want to do that first.

My question is, would the foot high berm you talked about building up, and then putting the floor on, and then setting up the shelter, work in a place with so much rainfall, or is it impractical to put it on the earth in such conditions? I'm hoping that we don't need to build a deck and insulate it, but I'd like to know if it would be impractical to put it on the earth.

thanks,

Francesca Reitano
Sacramento

Francesca

The idea is to build a small hill with it's flat top big enough for the dome to sit on. If you get flooding of only 2" then a 1' high area will work. Water only moves up hill a few inches. You will still need a tarp to keep the ground dampness from entering your dome's space. Your tarp needs to be keep inside the dome and the edge of your mound should be sloped gradually down and away from your dome. This way when it rains water will flow down and away from your dome.

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis


I bought some Grip Clips from you about a year ago and took them to
Maui camping for 7 days and used them in a few different ways. Truly a cool gadget.
One picture depicts usages in fairly high winds. They are a life saver when you want to tie it down
in an exact spot.
 
Thanks once again,
 
J.C.
 


On Mar 14, 2006

I was wondering how long the frame can be expected to last. Your statement,
"Poles can usually be obtained from a building supply or plumbing store. Ask
for class 200, class #125 or schedule 40 will also work." made me wonder.
Here in Los Angeles I've seen 1/2" schedule 40 PVC become brittle after a
little over one year in the sun. Is there an additional treatment that is
used on your frames or recommended treatment to keep the PVC from
deteriorating in the sun?

Can a properly anchored 18' dome assembled correctly and in good condition
handle sustained 60mph wind loads? I would hope that I could avoid that
situation, but when those desert winds kick up they can really be screamers.

Dan Metcalf

The PVC we use is standard. In all cases the poles outlast the coverings. In most conditions they last 3 + years. We guarantee them for 1.5 yeas.

I do not recommend our 18' for sustained 60 mph winds. If your application is Burning Man then our domes have done well at BM for over 8 years and have survived some strong wind storms with gusts in the 50's. But this was not sustained. See: http://www.shelter-systems.com/burningman-.html

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis


Date: March 11, 2006

I have a question about heating. Would a kerosun heater be safe as long as you have plenty of ventilation?
Hi, I live in the portland,oregon area. I would like to know if a single shelter can be purchased?  If so, how much would the 30' diameter dome cost?  You have a very informative web site.  Thank you and I hope to hear from you.
Randy
Portland, OR.

Randy

You can heat our domes with kerosene but we are not experts in the use of heaters, so I would carefully follow the instructions given with the heater. It is best if you can get a vented heater so that combustibles are expelled from your dome. When a fuel is burn it produces water vapor which will add to the dampness of your space; and carbon dioxide which can suffocate you if you were in an airtight room. The other reason is the fumes which the heater produces can smell and if burnt incompletely produce carbon monoxide (this not the carbon dioxide we mention above but more dangerous and can kill you. Now there are heaters which claim to be safe with out being vented so be smart and read and follow their directions.


On Mar 11, 2006

Good Day,

See http://www.ghg.net/akelly/gleneagl.htm for how my 10' Bubble Dome is used. You may remember me, since you use a picture of my observatory and an e-mail I sent you in your testimonials section.

I erected this in late summer-early fall 2004 and have kept it in good condition by cleaning it thoroughly with K-400 every 6-10 weeks. I have just noticed that the material is starting to "shred" (for lack of a better term) near a couple of the joints (clips). Is there any method of repair for this?

Kind Regards,

Al Kelly

As to the aging of the covering at clips. The covering is UV stabilized but being thin and translucent the sun works on it over time. The covering will age over time and eventually crumble. Thus do most things. You might consider applying 303 Aerospace Protectant a UV fabric sunscreen. Do a Google search: for "303 Aerospace Protectant Price" and you will find many sources for it. You might also find it at a local marine supply our outdoor furniture store. I have not tested 303 but it seems it should extent the life of the covering. If you do use it let me know how it performs over time. The best protection can be gained by coving the dome or at least the top with a sunshade. We offer some shades: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html or you can buy shades at building supply stores or Home Depot.

Individual panels can be replaced at your end. Let us know what panels you need and we will send them free of charge, since you are just out of warrenty. We normally sell replacement panels (a panel is considered two squairs) for the 10' for $40 each. They come with new larger clips (you brake the old clips off one at a time, put the new panel in and clip it with a new clip; then move on to the next). You protect the dome with a shade cloth that is attached to the clip structure of the dome; this way the shade would stay with the dome when you unhook it to move it. Alternately you could shade just around the clips and glue shade patches to the dome with silicone rubber. I would also suggest using the 303.

Replace a whole panel if a tear is immediately adjacent to a clip. Order the same panel from Shelter Systems. 1) Arrange the replacement panel over top of the damaged panel so that it is in the same orientation.2) Remove only one clip from your dome being careful not to disrupt the layering sequence of the panels on your dome. If you can not get the clip off use a pliers and brake the ring part of the clip (you will receive 4 extra Heavy Duty Grip Clips with each replacement panels). 3) Take your time to carefully slide out the corner of your damaged panel and insert your replacement panel into the same layering sequence as that of the damaged panel. 4) Now with all layers in the same order and orientation as before; gather these tightly around the male clip and slip over the female clip as described below. When many layers are involved as is the case with the corners of the windows, attaching the female clip can be difficult; practicing on scraps and making the layers warm with the sun or heat lamp (be careful not to melt the covering by getting it to hot) can help.


Date: February 27, 2006

Subject: Yurt Dome Question

What's the best way to anchor a 20' dome when you only have asphalt to set-up on?

--
Genevieve P. Pastor-Cohen, MS, CEM
SEO Program Manager
Security & Emergency Operations Group
Environment Health & Safety
Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory

If you can drive steel stakes into the asphalt then use the instructions in the manual ( http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html ) for staking using "foundation stakes" . If you are not allowed to drive stakes into the asphalt then use large water containers ( 55 gal plastic drums) as anchors at each of the domes lower anchor clips (12 drums on the 14', 18' and 20' and 20 drums on the 30' Attach 3' by 3 ' sections of tarps to the bottom Grip Clips of the dome with a heavy duty Grip Clip ( when attaching this Heavy Duty Clip - layer in 3 additional 10" by 10" patch layers of tarp - this added thickness should assure that the Grip Clip you are attaching does not slip on the tarp sections). Check to see that the clip does not slip. Set the empty drums over these attached tarps and then fill the drums with water. Test to see that you can not pull the tarp out from under the drums. Tie these clips securely to the domes anchor clips. The dome may be held down with a sufficient number of sand bags tied to the domes anchor clips and weighting down the domes skirt but this will require a very large number of bags. Do NOT underestimate the strength of the wind. If you can move the anchor clips they are NOT secure and your dome could blow away or cause extreme damage.

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis


February 22, 2006

 

Hi-
I want to order a customized dome....we live in Hawaii and want to be able to have alot of screens and/or shadecloth. What kind of timeframe does it take to complete a custom dome and ship it to Hawaii? And, is there an additional shipping charge?
Thanks-
Aia

Hi Aia

We have a standard line of domes that may work for you. The maximum number of screen doors is 4. We do offer sun shades: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html You can get as many of these as you want. We also sell just the tops of our domes that could be set up on posts so you could put netting all the way around: http://www.shelter-systems.com/roof-shell.html Orders are shipping with in one week of order.

Let us know if we can help you.

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis


On Feb 16, 2006

Hello my name is louis costa, I am the manger of an extreme sports company in Lisbon Portugal and I am interested in purchasing a 20´dome but I would like to have the floor sewed to the sides in a waterproof seals, since the dome is to be used in a very wet terrain and also to protect the wind to come in between floor and the walls. Is it possible ? if yes how much would the all thing cost me ?
Thank you very much
 
Louis

Louis

We do not sew in our floor as this would create a leakage problem with all the needle holes. We do provide clips that allow you to tie the floor to the walls at 12 places. You could buy an addition 12 Grip Clips (4 for $10) from us to clip the floor to the wall skirt for additional wind sealing. Alternatively you can weight down the domes skirt with rock and or dirt; or use sticky back velcro to seal the floor to the wall. If you are in a high wind area you may also want to use sticky back Velcro to seal some of your wall shingles.

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis


I just wanted to let you know how great your Light Fabric Grip Clips work as sheet fasteners. Those little garter sheet things don't hold. The Grip Clips are great! Yours are the best.


On Jan 20, 2006

Last year I purchased a 31 foot dome to be used as a church here in New England.  This past winter has been brutal and even though the dome collapsed 3 times, it popped back into place.  Last week, we had almost 60-65 mph winds and although the dome collapsed and popped back up, there was still damage to the bottom of the dome as it ripped away from its anchors.  I will have to dismantle the dome but am having problems undoing the pipes because of the tension that is on them.  Please advise if there is any way to take them apart without cutting them.  We had many services in the dome along with Thanksgiving dinner and it really glowed at night when it was lit up.
I hope that I can somehow repair the damage to the bottem of the dome and use it again.  I will attempt to take some pictures of it and e-mail them to you.  Sincerely, Jim Jasinski - Pastor

Jim Jasinski

You can cut come of the the clip cords to release the tension on the poles. Protect your eyes with safety glasses and face with a face shield if you decide to do this as the tension on the poles can be great. You can later replace the cord after you have made repairs. Replacement panels are $60 each and or you can repair the panels: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html

Repairs: Your yurt is designed to be durable and problem free. However, some of our customers use their structures for so many years that eventually they need some maintenance. A broken pole can be repaired with a wooden insert such as a piece of broom handle or a straight stick. Poles can usually be obtained from a building supply or plumbing store. Ask for class 200, class #125 or schedule 40 will also work. Poles may also be ordered from Shelter Systems (send length and size).

Broken connectors can be replaced with class 200 PVC (1-1/4" for the 20' and 18' domes and 1" for the 8', 10', 11', and 14' domes). The simplest way to repair a hole or cut in the covering is to cut a patch from the material the dome came wrapped in. Use 100% silicon rubber to glue your patch on the outside of the tear. If the tear is small you may be able to plug it up with a blob of silicon rubber alone.

If a clip is torn free of the covering or if a tear is immediately adjacent to a clip you can patch the tear with a patch cut from the skirt of your dome or the wrapping material that your yurt came in. Use a patch about 12" square, if this is sufficient to completely encompass the torn section with at least a 2" overlap on good sound material. This will allow you to spread the stress that the Grip Clip generates over a large # of stitches. Make your stitches about 1/8" long using doubled cotton covered polyester button thread. You do not have to remove the torn section of the covering. Preferably, but not absolutely necessary, glue the patch in place first with 100% Silicon Rubber bathroom caulk first, as this will make the sewing somewhat easer and provide a better seal. You will then have to wait while the glue sets which takes about 12 hrs. Make sure the covering is clean and dry before gluing. Press the glued patch between two heavy flat objects such as large books or flat rocks. After you set up the shelter you can apply Silicon Rubber to the now stressed seams to seal them and along the edge of the patch if you did not already glue the patch.

Alternativly you can replace a whole panel if a tear is immediately adjacent to a clip. Order the same panel from Shelter Systems. 1) Arrange the replacement panel over top of the damaged panel so that it is in the same orientation. 2) Remove only one clip from your dome being careful not to disrupt the layering sequence of the panels on your dome. 3) Take your time to carefully slide out the corner of your damaged panel and insert your replacement panel into the same layering sequence as that of the damaged panel. 4) Now with all layers in the same order and orientation as before; gather these tightly around the male clip and slip over the female clip as described below. When many layers are involved as is the case with the corners of the windows, attaching the female clip can be difficult; practicing on scraps and making the layers warm with the sun or heat lamp (be careful not to melt the covering by getting it to hot) can help. If your dome is flattened by snow, carefully remove the snow without tearing its covering. You may find it will pop back up or that you have to remove some of the poles and set up again. Replace any broken poles.

We would love to see any photos you have of the dome in use, with people or services etc.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis



January 30, 2006 Subject: Hot Yoga Enthusiast

I am interested in either the Bubble Dome 10 or the YurtDome 8 or 11 to
use as a 1 or 2 person high temperture yoga space. This is going in my back yard and I
would be heating it with an electric heater. I live in OrlandoFlorida and
we get a lot of rain. I have an existing deck where I would most likely
install the dome but can't figure out the instructions to keep the rain
out. Considering the rain, would the YurtDome be a better choice. I would
hope that I could just lay out the floor and set the YurtDome on Top.
Also, do you think I could heat the dome to a temperature of around 100 F.
The moisture is OK.

Virginia

Virginia

You say 100 degrees. How cold outside would it be and what size heater? With a big enough heater: yes. You may want to get it with a liner for extra insolation to hold in the warmth.

Dome must be securely fastened to your deck with eye bolts/screws or the like. Floors must be set up inside the dome to make it water tight.

The size domes you mention would be fine for one but I do not think 2 people doing Yoga. I would go for the 11 YD as the other two have higher ceilings and your heat would go up.

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis


On Jan 31, 2006 Extra height

I am using my14' yurt dome tent for meditation (a zendo). I have done
all day sits (starting at 7am and going till 7pm) in
it. It is GREAT! I only wish I had gotten the 18 or 20
foot one so it's door was higher. I
will also use it for three and seven day retreats as
soon.

I have the 14 foot dome. I would like to raise it
about 1 1/2 feet to 2 feet off the ground. Is there a good way to
do this?

I have come up with a few ideas but figured ya'all
would know best. thanks

Rev KC DaiKai

The strongest way to add a 2 feet to the bottom of the dome is to first:
Tie pairs of pole connectors to 20 new HD clips.
Unclip the 20 plug clips with the single pole plugs at the base of your dome.
Add and shingle a skirt of material to the bottom that is wide enough for the height you need + 1.5' using the 20 clips with connectors you have just assembled.
Clip the plug clips along the base of the added material allowing 11" for a skirt 2' directly below the connector clips.
Cut and insert 20 new full length poles to create the ring around what was the base but soon will be 2' above the ground.
Cut and insert 20 new short poles to your added extension. Choose a length so that the tension on the covering is the same as the tension on the main part of the dome. These short poles are difficult to install because you can not bend them. It will be easier to install them if you first remove the vertical pole above it; insert the short pole then reinsert the long pole; or use a pulley system to tension the base clip cords with extra long cords after adding the poles to clips .
Stake out.

This will maintain the integrity of the structure and only weaken it slightly. The skirt stabilizes the added poles. With out the skirt the dome will be blown over in the wind.

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis


On Jan 24, 2006

Robert hello, Ann Morrison here again (from Brisbane, Australia)

I trust you are well. I have question about installing the yurt onto a flat wooden floor and securing the pole ends.

The 20 foot dome will be installed inside an exhibition space onto a flat floor. I can drill into the floor.

I would love to simply sit it on the floor (there will be no wind etc) but I guess it needs some kind of guying so it is stretched out properly?

Recommendations gratefully received as always. I will let you know the url for the documentation of the exhibition and happy you link there/ use pics as always

best regards

Ann Morrison

Ann

The dome does not need to be staked or guyed except to hold it in place. If you set it up in the open arch form you need to hold the opening into is place by securing the domes' clip cord to the deck or run a cord between the arch to hold its shape. Note also that at the base of the door there is a tension strip that holds the sides of the door in place. If possible do not cut these. If you need to cut the door strip you will have to secure the base at the door sides to hold the door opening in it proper place. You could rather leave the strip and cover the door tension strip with carpet to prevent people from tripping on the tension strip when passing through the door.

Thanks in advance for the URL, the link and phtos you have offered.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


Date: January 19, 2006
Subject: Burning Man

Howdy!
 
We purchased a 20' dome tent in 2000 and have used it every year at Burningman. It goes up for seven days every year and has been great. We have done minor repairs over the years on the structure. One thing that we did was very helpful. At Bman, we have to use rebar to secure the base of the dome to the playa. We'll the small pieces of rope eventually tear due to rubbing back and forth on the rebar. We fixed this by replacing all of the rope and using good, solid, key rings - problem solved!
 
However, after five years in the desert (and many, many wind storms) the dome has been damaged beyond our ability (to repair it). I was wondering if your wonderful company can rebuild the section that ripped. We tried to fix it in the desert, but I think we made it worse. Do you offer any kind of repair service that can help us get our dome back into action for the 2006 Bman event?
 
You have a picture of our dome tent from 2000 (http://www.shelter-systems.com/yurt-domes-burning-man.html/pages/DSCN0431.htm)  - we are Sloth Camp.
 
Thanks,
Mark

 

Mark

I like your idea of rings to avoid wear on re-bar. We have found that our stakes seem to hold fine if driven below the surface. They also do not create the hazards that re-bar can.

We do not repair used domes here because it gets our clear room dirty and ends up costing too much. We do offer replacement panels which the user can replace themselves at a reasonable cost of $60 per double panel. These panels come with 4 replacement Heavy Duty Grip Clips. Place your order on line or by calling 866 777 1066. Let us know which panels you need to replace. If you have questions about doing this call 650 323 6202.

http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html

Repairs: Your yurt is designed to be durable and problem free. However, some of our customers use their structures for so many years that eventually they need some maintenance. A broken pole can be repaired with a wooden insert such as a piece of broom handle or a straight stick. Poles can usually be obtained from a building supply or plumbing store. Ask for class 200, class #125 or schedule 40 will also work. Poles may also be ordered from Shelter Systems (send length and size).

Broken connectors can be replaced with class 200 PVC (1-1/4" for the 20' and 18' domes and 1" for the 8', 10', 11', and 14' domes). The simplest way to repair a hole or cut in the covering is to cut a patch from the material the dome came wrapped in. Use 100% silicon rubber to glue your patch on the outside of the tear. If the tear is small you may be able to plug it up with a blob of silicon rubber alone.

If a clip is torn free of the covering or if a tear is immediately adjacent to a clip you can patch the tear with a patch cut from the skirt of your dome or the wrapping material that your yurt came in. Use a patch about 12" square, if this is sufficient to completely encompass the torn section with at least a 2" overlap on good sound material. This will allow you to spread the stress that the Grip Clip generates over a large # of stitches. Make your stitches about 1/8" long using doubled cotton covered polyester button thread. You do not have to remove the torn section of the covering. Preferably, but not absolutely necessary, glue the patch in place first with 100% Silicon Rubber bathroom caulk first, as this will make the sewing somewhat easer and provide a better seal. You will then have to wait while the glue sets which takes about 12 hrs. Make sure the covering is clean and dry before gluing. Press the glued patch between two heavy flat objects such as large books or flat rocks. After you set up the shelter you can apply Silicon Rubber to the now stressed seams to seal them and along the edge of the patch if you did not already glue the patch.

Alternativly you can replace a whole panel if a tear is immediately adjacent to a clip. Order the same panel from Shelter Systems. 1) Arrange the replacement panel over top of the damaged panel so that it is in the same orientation. 2) Remove only one clip from your dome being careful not to disrupt the layering sequence of the panels on your dome. 3) Take your time to carefully slide out the corner of your damaged panel and insert your replacement panel into the same layering sequence as that of the damaged panel. 4) Now with all layers in the same order and orientation as before; gather these tightly around the male clip and slip over the female clip as described below. When many layers are involved as is the case with the corners of the windows, attaching the female clip can be difficult; practicing on scraps and making the layers warm with the sun or heat lamp (be careful not to melt the covering by getting it to hot) can help. If your dome is flattened by snow, carefully remove the snow without tearing its covering. You may find it will pop back up or that you have to remove some of the poles and set up again. Replace any broken poles.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


On Jan 8, 2006

Hi, I came across your site on the 2nd or 3rd page of a Google search. The idea of a dome for a GH is appealing. I have some questions.

Q How exactly does the door close? Does it just clip shut?

They clip on the lower edge.

Q On a sunny day, how does one open up a vent?

You can open the doors and insert a vent tub up high. See: http://www.shelter-systems.com/shingling.html

Q How long will the plastic covering last?

In FL and AZ it lasts 3+ years.

How does one insulate this GH for use in colder weather?

We make a full liner. See: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html

Liners
A full liner will increase the winter comfort of your dome. A liner reduces heat loss from radiation, conduction and convection by creating an insulating dead air (i.e., the liner's air does not circulate with the dome air) space of 2"-3". It also helps prevents condensation which may occur in very cold situations. The full liner is constructed of a white fire-retardant ripstop film with clear vinyl windows for a wonderfully bright and warm space. We also make liners for our greenhouses out of the translucent greenhouse covering. To install, you tie it in place at each intersection point on the dome, pulling it tight. Installation is simple and takes about one hour. You can order a liner with your dome and install it right away, or decide to add one later. If you plan on spending a winter in your dome, a liner will produce a more evenly heated space and you will use less fuel. Be sure to tell us if you want a white or greenhouse liner.
Price: 30' liner-$1800 Shipping $160; 20'-$750, Shipping $65; 18'-$660, Shipping $55; 14'-$540, Shipping $45;

Q Any downside to your design compared to the traditional rectangle GH?

I do not know specily which GH you are comparing with. There are advantges and disadvantages to all designs.

Q What exactly am I buying for $800 or $900 besides PVC pipe and plastic?

It is put together so you get a greenhouse in about 1 hour of setting it up.

Q Do you have a catalog showing more details?

Our catalog is only online now. See: http://www.shelter-systems.com/greenhouses.html

Let me know.

Lance D. Reedy
Lewiston, ID


On Jan 8, 2006, at 3:44 PM, L & C Reedy wrote:

Hi, I sent you an email a little while ago. I just read your testimonials. I have some
additional questions.
Q If people are living in the domes, and the sun is shining, ow do they keep from cooking to death? I have not
seen any noticeable vents that open up.

See: http://www.shelter-systems.com/shingling.html

Q You had one photo of a party that had made a base ring with irrigation PVC. If not using that, how is the dome secured to the ground?
and how does one keep it from blowing away?

Staking or if on concrete then set eye bolts. See: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html

Q For greenhouse purposes, what is the light transmission percent?

Shelter Systems' Translucent: Lets 90% of sunlight through (more than glass). UV transmission is over 75%. Designed for greenhouse and solar use.

Thanks
Lance


Hi Robert.
  My husband and I received your information from Tim Quicke at Ricochet Productions in London, England.  We are moving with our three children (currently 5, 3, and 15 months) to the Western part of the Upper Peninusla.  We are going to be building a cordwood home off-grid.  Ricochet is producing a documentry of our family as part of a Discovery Channel series. 
  We are currently looking into temporary shelter.  We will have about three feet of snow on the ground when we arrive in mid March.  We need something that we can use in the woods, that we can set up with just four adults and that will house our family of five for three or so months.  We are going to set up in the woods, so we aren't too concerned about snow load.  Could you please let me know if you have a Yurt/Dome that would fit our needs and some pricing information.  Thanks!  Tiffany Appell

Dear Tiffany

What are the ages of your family? I think one of our domes may work for you. How it the wind were you will be set up? Will you be able to get to other shelter if your dome is compromised in a huge storm? I might recommend 2 or 3 of our Yurt Domes. These could be a 20' for living room/ bedroom. An 18' for kitchen and a 18 for a bedroom. You would have to deal with snow as it builds up.

Sincerely,

Bob Gillis


Dear Robert Gillis Hi

Thanks for your reply. We donot have lots of wind in kashmir but snowfall. Do both have the same effect overall on the duration of life of your tent. Secondly the village people there donot stop buring small fires inside their homes and they would do it inside our tents too. How much is the fear of the tent catching fire easily. Lastly in comparison with prefab houses how would you rate the tents. This question is for my own knowledge only. Thanking you I look forward to your reply.

with best regards

Maqbool

Dear Maqbool,

Thank you for your inquiry.

The tents hold a small amount of snow which must be melted or shaken off periodically and it will not adversely effect the life of the tent.

The tents are made fire retardant material. The covering can melt if it comes in contact with a flame but will not sustain fire if the heat sources is removed.

The tents are light weight, affordable and portable. Prefab homes can be more durable but they are large, more expensive and difficult to move and install.


 

Hi,

I would like to use one of your shelters to enclose a wood fired hot tub during the colder 6 months of the year.

Is there someway to get a stove vent pipe out through your roofing material?

thanks

John Wallace

Dear John,

Thank you for your inquiry.

The simplest way to install a stove pipe in your tent is to roll up one of the doors and shingle in a sheet of plywood slightly bigger than the door covering. Then run your stove pipe through standard stove pipe fittings through the plywood. Please see our web manual for directions: Instruction Manual: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html

I hope this is helpful.


 

How much weight and wind can your frame system take?

We have an application where we have an air inflated Teflon/Kevlar laminated fabric Radome containing a delicate antenna that is 18’ diameter. The total weight of the radome fabric is less than 150 lbs when deflated. We are looking for a non-conductive frame system to install inside to take the weight of the dome with some wind in the event we loose inflation pressure.

Craig Dawson

Dear Craig,

Thank you for your inquiry.

Our frame system is dependent upon our covering for support, so the frame alone would not sufficiently support your structure.

You could however put the entire dome inside your inflatable Radome and thereby support it if deflated.

Sincerely, Robert Gillis


 

Maintenance/repair on an older dome?

I have a 20' dome that I purchased from you quite a while ago for use at Burning Man -- I'm not sure whether its first year on the playa was '98 or '99, but it was one of the two. It has ONLY been used at Burning Man (and set up once a year in a park beforehand to make sure we have all of the parts), but the harsh environment and, frankly, lack of care and maintenance after use (and the fact that it's been passed around among various grateful groups of users) has taken its toll on the structure. I don't think it went out to the playa this year, but in '04 it suffered some blowouts in a big windstorm due to worn-through elastic cord on some of the connectors, etc.

Now, my boyfriend is about to spend a winter living up at Harbin, and is considering taking the dome with him as his primary residence while he's there (he also has a VW van, but the dome would be much more comfy!). My question is: If we brought the poor, neglected dome to your offices, could we pay someone who works with these structures all the time to take a look at its components and replace everything that's in danger of imminent failure? (Of course I'd pay for parts and labor...) In other words: do you provide a 100,000 mile servicing option?

thank you for your consideration,
Dana
Berkeley, CA

We do not work on dirty domes here as it makes our space dirty. So I suggest you fix it up yourselves: Replace all the worn cords. Put it up. Replace poles if needed. Hose it down in and out using a sponge mop and soap to clean it; rinse it well. Let it dry out compleatly. Patch any holes with silicon rubber 100%. and if needed strips of the wrap material cut to make patches. You should be good to go. One last thing: Never store the dome damp as bits of dirt will rot and stink up your dome.

Dr Dome


Howdy,

I have one of your 20 footer domes that got some wind damage tears at some of the panel connector points and also was vandalized while folded up with a knife creating several inches to feet cuts generally in mid-panel areas. In all there are maybe 12 panels that need repair or replacement. I was wondering if you did dome fixing and how to figure out about how much it would cost. Or, if not and I must give it a go, is there a kind of perfect repair tape in black and in white (maybe an iron on?) that could be used for some of the shorter cuts. And, would you recommend replacing the woven ripstop panels where they've torn loose at the connector clips or can those areas sometimes be repaired to as-good/strong-as-new. like what's in the "repair kit"?

thanks a much,

David
Davis, CA

You can use the skirt of the dome or the wrapper it came in to create patches; glue them with silicone rubber 100%. Were the clips have been torn out you will need to sew a patch as the glue will not hold. The repair kit has scraps of material and silicone rubber. Tape does not last in the sun.


Dear Shelter Sytems:

I was interested in making window awnings. I saw your picture, but have no idea how you can use 4 grip clips to make these awnings. I actually would want to make 4 to 8 window awnings.

Do you have an instruction guide for the awnings? Would finished awnings made this way be sturdy?

Thanks for your help,

Jeff Kirby

It is fairly easy.

You need 4 GP Grip Clips per awning, 10 "eye"screws, two 1" wooden "prop" dowels, one "spreader" dowel slightly longer than the width of your awning and your awning cloth of choice. For awing cloth, you can use our covering if you want: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html

Cut your awing cloth to fit your window and so when pulled out will make good shade (see photo). Attach the 4 grip clips to the corners of your awning cloth. Screw 2 of your eye screws into the frame above your window and 2 to the sides of your window. Screw the other 6 eye screws into the ends of your wooden dowels.

Now tie the Grip Clips on one edge of your cloth to the eye screws above your window. Move your Grip Clips so that they tension your cloth tight. then tie the other Grip Clips to the prop and spreader dowels. Tie the lower ends of the two prop poles to the eye screws at the sides of your window.

If you are in a area with wind you should run a cord or dowel from each of lower edge Grip Clips that are attached to your awning to the bottom of your window frame with two additional eye screws. This will keep the awning from lifting in strong wind. Wind can cause your awning eye screws to vibrate on your window frames and cause damage. If this is a concern to you then attach your dowels to your house with brackets that allow attachment without the risk of vibration.

If you do not have wooden frames or siding use other fixtures that will allow you to attach your awning to your windows.


 

I am looking for something to overwinter my plants. They are philodendrons, peace lilies, etc. Would this unit need to be heated? We are located in Southern Ohio.

I do not know your climate but my guess is you would need to heat it at least some. The unit will absorb a lot of warmth when the sun is shinning and hold some of this into the night, but when the weather is cloudy or when it has not absorbed enough heat to hold it at a temperature you would need during the night, you would need to heat it. You also need to take care that snow does not build up on it. This can be done by shaking it off with a broom or using heat to melt the snow. Read:

Snow and Wind Warnings: http://www.shelter-systems.com/warning.html


Hi Robert,
Thanks for the info! I have one more question. Can the material of the shelter get mildewed if it's 'put away' and wet? We are planning to use these for a Sunday School classroom and during the winter if it's raining, the material will be wet. This would be set up outside at an Elementary school, so it would need to be taken down after at a certain time regardless of whether it's wet or dry. The concern is that if it's put away while it's wet and stays like that until the next week, that it might get a mildew smell. Would this be the case?
Thanks!
Tami Norris

The covering itself will not mildew but any dirt that gets on the covering will. If the dome is put away wet, when you open it up later, it is may smell. I suggest taking it dome into a room that is dry and warm with at least one big fan blowing and unrolling it. Drying can happen with out the heat or fan but is delayed. Crack a window to let the warm most air out and leave the door ajar if possible. Go into the room several times a day and move the covering about so that other parts of the wet covering are exposed to the moving warm air. If possible pull the dome's covering over chairs or tables so that the air can get under it. You can also hang the dome's cover from the top Grip Clip that is at the top of the dome and pull this clip up to a height so that the cover is not touching the ground but you will need a high ceiling to do this. You should dry it out completely before storage unless you plan to put it up the next day. It is better to leave it up in the rain then put it away wet.


I purchased a 32 ft dome last year and would like to know how to clean the outside. What can I use as it is black from the trees? What do you recommend and how should I go about cleaning it?

I suggest using a sponge mop with a strong cleaner and a handle extension so you can reach the top of the dome. Rinse with a hose.

I've been using it as a church and am very pleased with it so far. When it rains hard there are some puddles inside. I haven't figured out where it is coming in from yet.

Perhaps while you are cleaning you can locate the leak by shooting a fine rain like spray up and have it fall back down on the top of your dome. Have some one inside at the same time to locate the leak.

Do you have any suggestions on how to stop the rain from coming in? Some of the overlapping flaps seem loose, is this normal?

No loose shingling is not normal. Some times in assembly one of the layers may be twisted and cause this.

How do I tighten them?

The best way: is to remove the poles from one of the clips that is on one side of the loose flaps. Take up the slack and re clip it. This will require some practice at "clipping".

Another simpler way is clean and dry the area were there is leakage and then apply a bead of 100% "Silicon Rubber" caulking between the two shingles at their overlap; along the overlaps full length and then press them together. This should glue the shingling in place. After the silicon cures test again for leakage with your hose as described above.

Would love a photo of your church with members inside and or outside.

Thank you for your help. Pastor Jim - j.h.jasinski



 
I have an 18 foot and a 20 foot dome.  I recently took both domes to Burning Man and had the unfortunate experience of both domes collapsing in a major wind event on Monday of Burning Man week.  The domes were totally exposed to the wind since they were located in the walk-in camping area and no structures were located around them.  One pole basically shatered in one of the domes and a number of poles got bent in both domes.  Both domes where correctly staked (rebar around the domes and guy ropes to the pole connectors on the first level from the ground.  I replaced all damaged poles and the domes held up the rest of the week. I have a few questions regarding this event.
 
1 In guying the domes, is it bettter to tie the guy rope around the pole connectors (I know you are not suppossed to tie it to the poles) or is it better to tie to the rope that is attached to the pole connectors?  Is there a particular way to put these guy ropes (distance from dome, angles, anything else) that would put less stress on the domes, specially the vertical poles taht are closest to the ground surface?

It should not matter if you tie the guy lines to the connectors or the clip cords. And you are quite right about Not tying to the poles as this will pull the pole out of the connectors.

In setting a guy Always include a strong section of "bun-gee" (the black strong type) into the line so that there is some give and take. Domes have failed due to the fact that the guy lines are too stiff and this prevents the dome from flexing with the wind. (my guess is this is why your domes lower poles failed)

Set guy lines as long as possible since a short line put more downward compression stress on the poles.

Always set as many guy lines as possible.

It is often best not to set guy lines as dome clips have be ripped out by guy lines and guy lines can prevent a dome from responding flexibly to wind loads.

2 It seems like the row of poles that are closest to the ground surface and are vertical receive the most tension in heavy wind conditions.  Are these the most likely to give way first in heavy wind conditions?  If so, would heavier poles (Schedule 40) help in heavy wind conditions?

Where you able to watch the dome in the wind? Do you have photos of the dome in wind or after the wind damage? If so please send them. Did you notice any difference between the performance of the two domes? I have not tried Schedule 40 side-wall poles on the dome and am unsure if it would strengthen the dome. If you try it let me know if it helps.

3 Do you have any suggestions to customized the domes to make them more resistant to heavier wind conditions?

You can put a second set of (slightly longer) poles on the dome by tying a second set of connectors on the out side of the existing connectors.
 
Thanks and I appreciate any information that you can give me on this.  Carlos
 


I need a portable tent that can seat 85 people.  Can the 30’ do that or is there another size that can.

Bob Gale

I think so. How would they be seated?

How to Visualize Interior Space Size

The best way to get an idea of the space inside the dome is to print out a picture of the dome. Then mark a circle on the ground or pavement with chalk or small stones that is the diameter of your Yurt Dome by having a friend hold a cord that is 1/2 the diameter of your Yurt Dome to the ground while you walk around him keeping the cord taught and marking the ground. Next have your friend stand in the circle while you back away from him holding the picture of your Yurt Dome at arms length till the Yurt Dome's diameter in the picture matches the diameter of the the circle you have marked on the ground. Now you can move the picture, keeping it at arms length, over top of your friend and it's base will match the circle. Your photo will be to scale with your friend. You can have him move about inside this "dome" and get a clear idea how much interior space is inside.


Hi there Bob-
 
Just wanted to let you know how utterly FANTASTIC our yurt worked out for the burn this year!! As you may recall we were a little nervous about collecting it right after we flew in from the UK and then having to erect it on the playa without a training run....well we got to the playa as the sun was going down on Sunday nite, the wind (which picked up to a dull roar the next day was just starting to blow) and my intrepid hubby insists we go ahead and put it up- in the dark!!! Well it took us 45 min to get it up, a bit longer to do the rebar but there it stayed for the remainder of the week. The shadecloth worked great and it never got unbearably hot during the day - it was a beautiful year weather-wise tho!
So just wanted to give you feedback- we loved it and plan on using it every time we manage to get back for the burn- we've stored it in SF.


Hi!
I have a couple of questions in regards to the Yurt Dome Portable Tent Shelters. We are looking to use these as portable Sunday School classrooms.

1. For 25 teenagers, what size would be recommended? What size for 50 teenagers?

People often ask how many people can sit, sleep or stand in a certain size Shelter Systems' yurt or dome. Study the drawings below ( http://www.shelter-systems.com/sizes.html ) to make size and volume comparisons of our different domes.

You can also mark a full-size circle on the pavement. Have a friend hold to the ground a string equal in length to one half the diameter of the dome you are wondering about. Walk around your friend, keeping the string tight. Use chalk or small rocks to mark a circle "drawn" by the end of the string. After you get your circle marked ,put a sleeping bag, cot, chair, table, etc. inside the circle. You can also draw objects in the circle. Invite some friends over to size up your "dome." Draw some other sizes on the ground and compare.

How to Visualize Interior Space Size

The best way to get an idea of the space inside the dome is to print out a picture of the dome. Then mark a circle on the ground or pavement with chalk or small stones that is the diameter of your Yurt Dome by having a friend hold a cord that is 1/2 the diameter of your Yurt Dome to the ground while you walk around him keeping the cord taught and marking the ground. Next have your friend stand in the circle while you back away from him holding the picture of your Yurt Dome at arms length till the Yurt Dome's diameter in the picture matches the diameter of the the circle you have marked on the ground. Now you can move the picture, keeping it at arms length, over top of your friend and it's base will match the circle. Your photo will be to scale with your friend. You can have him move about inside this "dome" and get a clear idea how much interior space is inside.

My guess is 20' and 30'

2. If this was to be set up on black top, what would be required to keep it from moving since it couldn't be staked into the ground?

Ask if you can drive large nails in the black top. If not, you will have to hold it down and in place with sand bags or large water containers. You may also be able to tie it to cars. Always tie to the clip cords not the poles. A wind will just pull the poles out of their connectors.

3. Would you recommend a carpet flooring or do you primarily recommend your flooring?

Carpet would be more comfortable but it it rains you should have a tarp under the carpet and up on the inside of your dome about 4" to keep the water that could run under the domes edge off your carpet.

4. I am located in Corona, California, would there be anything local to actually see one of these set up? Either a customer of yours or something else that you might have located in Southern California?

We have no show rooms and do not give out any customer information. You can return the dome if it is not what you expected within 30 days. We only ask that it be in new condition so we can sell it as a new dome.

To receive a full refund, return your dome in its original, clean, dry condition within thirty days of receipt. To keep the dome clean, plan to put it up on a clean, dry tarp larger than the diameter of your dome. If you decide to return, it take it down and pack it up before insects or dew collect in or on it. Ship to 24 Granger Lane, Santa Cruz CA 95060. Special Orders are not returnable (since they are not part of our standard line; we would have trouble reselling them).

Thanks!
Tami Norris
Eastvale Church


I would like to set up a free standing solarium in my back yard so that I would have a warm and sunny place during the winter. I've notice that all of your greenhouse would work to some degree but that the fabric used is translucent. Why not make a clear fabric alternative which would be more conducive for use as a solarium so that one could see out when in it? I'd buy one of your domes if this type of covering were an option. Perhaps the same kind of plastic used for rear windows in convertible tops for cars would work.

Thanks,
Brett Amole

We can put 4 clear vinyl windows in it for you but the vinyl does not work to make the whole dome. It is not strong enough. We have sold these as sun rooms with positive feedback.

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis


Robert,

Thank you for your response. Yes, having a few transparent panels would help a great deal. I would be interested in the 14-foot solarium.

Note that the only place we will install vinyl is the 4 smaller triangles that are above the doors.

Would there be an extra charge to make the adjustment to four transparent panels and if so, how much?

They are $25 each.

My biggest concern aside from not having an outside view with translucent panels would be that the solar heating effect wouldn't be as great as it would with transparent panels. Is that correct?

I am not sure, but do know that the translucent greenhouse covering we use lets in more light than glass and I would think you would be quite warm inside when the sun is shining.

The winters in Colorado are relatively mild, but it does get very cold here. It's on those really cold days that I would most want to use the solarium. I've seen many of your shelters of various sizes in use at Burning Man. How do the solariums differ from the shelters--same structure but different fabric?

That is right there is no difference in structure only the covering.

Thanks again,
Brett Amole


Hi,
 
I built a patio cover and am looking for some way to block out the wind and cold during the winter months. I though using a tarp could work but I would like to let some light in as well. Do you sell just the Clear vinyl material? And can you custom cut. Do they have grommets?
 
Please let me know.
 
Thanks,
 
Hermi

Shelter Systems' Translucent: Lets 90% of sunlight through (more than glass). UV transmission is over 75%. Designed for greenhouse and solar use. See: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html

Price: $10 a yard. Minimum of 4 yards. Under 20', add $15 for shipping and handling; over 20', shipping costs increase.

Clear Vinyl: Heavy gauge (10 mils), UV-stabilized. We use this for our windows. The vinyl comes 48" wide, in any length. See: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html

Price: $20 a yard, 48" wide, Under 6 yards, add $10 for shipping; over 6 yards, shipping costs increase.

We only cut yardage (non-returnable).

We do not attach grommets here however we do sell the Grip Clip and the Grip Clip Pro both of which can be used to attach vinyl or the woven material to frames. See: http://shelter-systems.com/gripclips/

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis

Shelter Systems, 224 Walnut St, Menlo Park CA 94025 Telephone: 650-323-6202
shelter@best.com http:www.YurtDomes.com http:www.GripClips.com
http:www.ReliefTents.com Copyright 2005 Shelter Systems All Rights Reserved

On Sep 15, 2005, at 9:28 PM, Jill wrote:

Hi,
 
I built a patio cover and am looking for some way to block out the wind and cold during the winter months. I though using a tarp could work but I would like to let some light in as well. Do you sell just the Clear vinyl material? And can you custom cut. Do they have grommets?
 
Please let me know.
 
Thanks,
 
Hermi


My name is Brant Bird. I am the head girls soccer coach at Pleasanton High School in Pleasanton Texas. We do not have lockerroom facilities at our field and I am looking for something that could be put up and taken down for games. Do you think one of your yurts would meet this need? I was thinking an 18' dome would do the job. We would need the shelter for halftime mostly. It would need to accommodate around 25 people seated. If you think that one of your other shelters would serve better in this situation please let me know. Money is tight so the biggest structure for the best value is what we are looking for.

Sincerely,
Brant Bird
Pleasanton Women's Soccer

Interesting use! Seems like it would work fine. Would they be sitting on the ground? More can sit on the ground since benches take up space. Using a 9' cord; have someone hold one end to the ground while you walk around putting small stones or mark a circle with a marker on the ground. Then get your team to test it out to see how they fit. Also test a 20' dome (10' cord).

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis

Shelter Systems, 224 Walnut St, Menlo Park CA 94025 Telephone: 650-323-6202
shelter@best.com http:www.YurtDomes.com http:www.GripClips.com
http:www.ReliefTents.com Copyright 2005 Shelter Systems All Rights Reserved


 

after taking a look at the faq i learned that your fabric can be sewed. we just order a bunch from you and i was wondering if you have any other additional tips for sewing the fabric together? how do you do it?

thanks
looking forward to buying more.
shannon

Use cotton covered polyester heavy duty thread. Set your sewing machine at 10 stitches per inch. Sew a fin seam by laying two lengths on top of each other and sew a 1/2" seam along the edge.

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis


 

hi,
 
i'm going to be working in a cave and am looking for a secure structure that i can live in while on site and wondering how your system will hold up over several months. the place will be my home with computer, stove the works.  i'm considering a military tent or your systems what's the major differences?  approx. how many months are they good for with constant use? there will be critters (coons, skunks, mice), fire ants, snakes etc. are there floors? if not how do you secure it from the critters and from catching wind underneath and blowing away? give me the sales pitch. 

__________________

Some important questions. There are major differences between our Yurt Domes and a military tent, but first, what kind and size of military tent are we talking about; do you have a photo? My guess the major differences between the military tent and ours will be weight, bulk, shape, structure, color, the amount of light inside and smell. Both have their advantages. What is the cost of the military tent and size and weight? As for constant use: individuals and families have lived continually in our tents for years. What climate will you be in? What elevation? Will you have a safe tree you can shade your shelter with? Coons, skunks, ants and mice will not bother your food if you keep it in sealed chew proof containers. If you leave your home for a week or more mice may move in; so if you do you may want to store away your clothing, bedding etc to prevent them from making a nest out of your yours. What kind of snakes do you expect. I would pick my site carefully so as not to near a fire ants nest or there trails. We make as an accessory floors for our tents (you can also make a decent floor from a blue tarp - cut it to fit up the wall in the inside about 6") but ants find their way in all most any thing. If you cook inside keep if super clean so as not to draw ants. Our Yurt Domes are drum tight in the wind and come with 12" Durapeg stakes for the 12 anchor points around their base. They have preformed excellently in strong winds but are not recommended for extreme winds or areas know for such.

Also see:
Accessories: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html
Testimonials: http://www.shelter-systems.com/yurt-dome-testimonials.html
Instruction Manual: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html
Common Questions Answered: http://www.shelter-systems.com/qanda.html
Answers to Email Questions: http://www.shelter-systems.com/email.html
More Email Questions: http://www.shelter-systems.com/email-additional.html
Still more Email Questions http://www.shelter-systems.com/email-stillmore.html
Happy Customers: http://www.shelter-systems.com/what-say.html
Snow and Wind Warnings: http://www.shelter-systems.com/warning.html
High Winds: http://www.shelter-systems.com/warning.html
Dealing with Strong Winds: http://www.shelter-systems.com/wind-tents.html

Call if you want, so we can talk in more detail about your needs and concerns.

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis


 

HI, I was very interested to see the 'Long Crystal Cave over Pool'. We live
in the Northeast and are putting an 7 x 14 ft. Endless Lap Swimming Pool on
our deck and are looking for a solution that will help retain heat in the
winter, allowing us to use the pool throughout the year. But the solution
must be removable in the warmer months and stored in a basement.

Do you think your Crystal Cave would serve?

It might.

How might it be secured to a
deck?

Eye bolts.

Can a handy person/helper put it together?

Yes.

How does the Cave
weather...

You should get approximatly 4 sun years of use. This will be extended by storage.

can repairs be made to the surface material?

Silicon Rubber glue works well but the material is hard to damage.

(You probably have
this in the text of your website but I confess that I just skimmed and
looked at the pictures.)

We just want enough height to permit entry, can be from a seated position.
And of course, how much?

How long?

We are also installing three flagpoles at the edge of our deck for the
purpose of securing something like a triangular sail for shade in the
summer. This 'awning' will then be taken down in the winter. Any possibility
that we could use a single structure for an awning in summer and a cave in
winter?

Not unless you wanted to cover it with shad cloth.

If you think there's some possibility, I can scan and send you the
design plan for our deck which would provide you with all the details.

It would be wise to give me an idea of the cost for something more standard
like the Crystal Cave so that I get an idea of pricing before asking you to
investigate a more customized solution.

CrystalCave™ Lap Pool Cover 9: 9'x9'x7' High $550 Shipping $45
For each additonal 4.5' of added length add: $350 Shipping add $35

Regards,
Marla


 

Greetings
 
Last year I purchased a 12ft dome from you. I also have acquired a 20fter from a friend.
I’m trying to purchase aluminet shade for burning man and am not sure how much I need for each
 
The company selling the uliminet has various widths (7,14,21 and 28 ft sections) that can be cut in any length.
My thought was to purchase I length for each dome, as opposed to having 3 or 4 separate sheets per dome.

We also have some Aluminet for sale: Accessories: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html

Woven Black or Silver Aluminet Sunshades
We also offer a woven sunshade in Black or Silver that fits the contours of the dome a better than our standard white/black and since it allows some of the wind through its weave handles wind better. These shades block 80% and 70% respectively. They are both made with a loose weave material which allows for cooling air to flow through and rain can not puddle. The Silver Aluminet Sunshade acts like a mirror to reflect unwanted sunlight and radiant heat. These come with cord and snap grips.
Price:
Black 80% Shade 12' x 16' $40 Ship $10
Black 80% Shade 20' x 20' $100 Ship $20
Silver Aluninet 70% Shade 14' x 14' $86 Ship $10
Silver Aluninet 70% Shade 21' x 21' $190 Ship $25

Wondering what your thoughts are on that, and what your advice is for how big each length should be, assuming I want to come somewhat close to the ground (I will cut out the doorway).

I would get the largest you can afford and run it over your dome (s) and then attach it to your car rack which you would park 1 to 3 dome widths from your dome. This will keep your dome cool and provide you with a shaded porch area in which to sit, eat and watch the people go by.
 
Also, some of the string attaching the pole holders is fraying- I would like to replace it, is there a specific kind of string I should purchase.?

1/8" nylon
 
Eric


 

Hi!

I have to cover the entire inside of my 18' Shelter-Systems yurt dome. Do you know the area in square feet that I would need to cover for this?

The dome has done me extremely well for the past two years, thanks so much again!

Thanks,
Scott

Approximately 508 square feet.


 

I am getting better at this but am still quite confused. Do you have an online catalog (as opposed to a set of pages)? By that I mean a sequence of pages that leads you thru all products and explains how they differ and how they are similar.

No, but an excellent idea, that we will implement.

Shelters in production:
Tunnel 9x9 and 11x11
Yurt Domes 8,11,14,18,20,30 and 31.5
Bubble Domes 10,14,18,20
Relief Tents inventoried 14,18,30

And the Bubbles are taller, right?

Yes.

How do the relief tents differ from the Yurt/domes?

You say yurt=dome=yurt/dome, and yet you have 3 different pages. What am I missing here?
What are the differences if any between a yurt, a dome, and a yurt/dome?

There is none.

I am thinking a 20' or 30' relief tent would be best for my application. Does the relief tent come in 20'?

Not at this time.

Can a relief tent be used temporarily on "stilts", vertical pvc legs that would extend from the ground up a couple of feet to provide more ventilation in a benign (moderate temps, no high wind) environment?

It can but we do not provide this as an accessory yet but it is easy for the end user to create. Note that the 30 is standard with 8 doors.

Sorry for so many questions, it's what you get for making such a great and thought-provoking product.

Questions are windows. Thank you.


 

Hello Shelter Systems:

I'm interested in your bike storage shed. Your website says that it requires an area of 3' x 5.5' x 6' Tall. My tiny little side yard can't take the 3' out from the house; I've only got about 26" to work with (just enough for the width of my bike). Would you be able to modify the system for me to bring it in by 12"?

Yes.

How much would this cost?

To make it affordable I suggest that you do the modification your self: The arched part of the structure is stiff like a kite but with the poles outside the arch. If you shorten each of the poles by 1/4" it will cause the arch to go flatter and fit your space better. You may have to shorten the poles again to get it how you want it but go at it little by little. When you have it right attach it to the wall and modify its door ( you can remove the clips and re-attach them to get it to fit right) or make a new door out of a section of blue tarp. Note that the poles take up some room so the useable inside space is less then the outside 3' by about 3".

Or, by moving the shed higher along the wall, would that automatically allow the width to pull in?

See above.

Also, the website description calls the shed freestanding. It looks like it would need to be bolted to the side of the house and at the base, though; can you clarify?

The arch is freestanding but you are right you need to attach it to a wall or fence and it should be attached to the ground.

Thanks! Look forward to hearing from you --

Shannon Waldron

--------

 

Thanks Robert. You would really suggest working at 1/4" intervals for the modifications? That seems miniscule judging by how long the poles look in the website photo. And how long would it take me to receive the structure after ordering? Thanks again --

Shannon

Each pole is sectioned at their intersections which would take off about an 1" overall.


On Jul 7, 2005, at 3:34 PM, Lesli Wingate wrote:

I am concerned about air quality because I have a 6 yr old daughter. In your experience, have you smelled vinyl during the day inside of one of your 18' domes?

I never have. The only component in the covering that has vinyl in it is the clear windows and they are small. However we do make the some dome with out the clear windows. We call this form of the dome "Extra Strong" because the translucent (transmit more light than glass) windows are also much stronger than the clear vinyl. The ES domes are the same price as the standard domes.

I love your product. I am finding it hard to believe that this is the only thing like this out there. I want something dome shaped, similar to a tent but that will last a long time.
Thank You
lesli


 

I was using some of your Grip Clip Pros Tarp Fasteners yesterday. Those are Awesom! man. Throwing a tarp over a 24' by 22' on top of a roof. would you send us some more. My construction buddy is all fired up on them too.

Jorma, Bellingham WA


 

Hi there!
 
We're coming to Burning Man from the UK this year so we can't afford to get this wrong! this is all a little remote from so far away but i saw your domes worked really well last year (my first time!)

Some questions before we place our order....
 
1. Will the porch work on the 18ft. dome? Which fabric would you reccomend for it?

The porch is mostly used in rain. Not much at BM. But you could order a porch of white out black in covering to provide some shade.
 
2. What size shade cloth should we get for the 18ft- bearing in mind that this will be our entire camp so we need it to be as cool as possible during the day- we thought we'd just roll up one of the sides to increase airflow during the day (unless it's howling of course)

At least two 6 by 12 or four if you want more coverage. Or the 14 by 14 black woven shade cloth or two so you could pull one out to your car to make a nice shade "porch" that is open on two sides. Nice to sit or cook under during hot part of day and watch the foot and bike traffic.
 
3. We'll be arriving on the playa 2 days after flying in to San Fran so there'll be no time for a dry run- we're both fairly handy but is it simple enough for two novices to put up first time around?

Yes.

You say doing it in the heat will help? How long should it take us more or less?

First time give your self an hour. Second time two people 1/2 hr.
 
4. What length rebar should we take, how many to secure the dome and porch for Black Rock kinda winds?

See our pages on winds and BM:

Snow and Wind Warnings: http://www.shelter-systems.com/warning.html

High Winds: http://www.shelter-systems.com/warning.html

Dealing with Strong Winds: http://www.shelter-systems.com/wind-tents.html

Burning Man: http://www.shelter-systems.com/yurt-domes-burning-man.html/index.htm

Burning Man General http://www.shelter-systems.com/

Read our instructions on staking:

Instruction Manual: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html

5. Are the guide ropes provided adequate or should we plan to bring extra rope to tie it all down?

If you plan to use rebar bring some 3/8" nylon rope : http://www.shelter-systems.com/wind-tents.html

Because of the dust and wind I would recommend you get some sticky back Velcro so you can seal any seams you are not using all the time.

Also, It is nice to lay down a tarp inside your dome, fold under the edges so it fits with about 6" up the inside of your dome and then put down an old rug. The rug gives the dust a place to settle out into
 
Thanks so much,
Look forward to hearing from you
 
Kim and Nick Lane

On Jul 3, 2005, Kim Lane wrote:

Thanks for all that, we're ordering this afternoon! Just to be clear, if we're getting the 18 should we get the 18 floor or would the 20 be better so that we'll have that overlap you speak of?

I was actually suggesting you use a blue tarp from say Home Depot for a floor (this works fine for a floor and is much cheeper) but if you want to order a floor from us you would order an 18'.

You may want to consider ordering your dome as an "Extra Strong". This just means that the windows are of a translucent material that is much stronger in heat and cold than the clear vinyl which you can see clearly through but is not as tough. The cost is the same either way.

I think we'll make do without the porch in that case, friends are donating a shade awning that we can abuse as required!
thanks so much
Kim


James Whitney

comments:
You indicate tarp use, but the missing value is in the ultralight materials (silicone impregnated nylon or the less expensive polyurethane nylon) that is very expensive to purchase as a finished tarp, but can be ordered as standard widths and sewn together for a more moderate cost. Sewing straight seems and hems is easy, but attaching secure loops is a more critical design feature. With the Light Fabric Grip Clips, the material can be fastened in any number of positions by the amature. For example, on a 10x10 sheet use 7 sets, three on the "lower" side and 4 sets evenly spaced on the "upper" side. Stake the lower side to the ground and put trekking poles into the holes on the center two upper side Grip Clips. Fasten the other two down to the ground. By adjusting the locations of the Grip Clips, and the pole heights, a floorless tent can be made that will accept a small piece of netting for complete the bug free domocile. Of course, by attaching the netting under the top two Grip Clips, the mesh door will be attached. The perfection of this system is, as you know, that the sides that are formed, can be swung open for more air (and more bugs). The design I'm describing can be adjusted for 4 season use with a campfire and will be a warm shelter. It isn't as tall as what you show and keeps out the wind and rain. A shallow trench is dug inside the back of the shelter to drain water away from the camper(s). Metal grommets tend to be unreliable, but I know the Grip Clips hold up to the forces of tarps in wind.


 

hello, we have a yurt-dome canopy and it needs repairing. We need to glue
the cover material together. What kind of glue do you recommend?

thank you, Lynn Frazer

100% silicon rubber glue. You can buy it in a tube or caulking gun size. Works for patching but will not hold stress. Sew first then patch sewing if seam is under stress.


Not sure what is the best distance for snow fencing. If you find out let me know so I can let others know. My guess would be 5' high and 8' away from the tent on the windward side with metal poles perhaps with guy-lines.

Some of us will be at BM.

Sincerely,

Robert Gillis

Shelter Systems, 224 Walnut St, Menlo Park CA 94025 Telephone: 650-323-6202
Fax: 650-323-1220 shelter@best.com http:www.YurtDomes.com http:www.GripClips.com
http:www.ReliefTents.com Copyright 2005 Shelter Systems All Rights Reserved


 

OK - looked over the site again and found the answers to the % coverage question.  Also looks like you recommend 2-3 sunshades for the 18 footer.  Thanks for having all that stuff posted.  Now the next issue I'm grappling with is wind protection.  I saw somewhere on the site that you recommended snow fencing as additional protection in high wind conditions.  I'm wondering if the 4ft high stuff is a good size?  Also, how far away from (or close to) the shelter should it be for best protection?  All the way around?  Staggered?  I'll be using my car as a wind-break, as well.

On a side note - will you be at Burning Man 2005?


On May 16, 2005

Thanks Bob-

We got the 18' foot dome in the mail the other day and love it.
Our field season doesn't start until June 13, so I will send you a photo
of the tent after that. Nicole and I set up the tent in our backyard.
It took us about 30 minutes as advertised- a simple, elegant design.

Todd

Todd Surovell
Assistant Professor
Anthropology


 

I’m looking for a sun bathing shelter to be used in a backyard, easily setup, just walls - no roof. Any suggestions?

Look at our Circle Wind Walls: http://www.shelter-systems.com/windwall.html Which are the lower sections of our domes.
Sincerely,


 

Just wanted to tell you that in the last three weeks we have had an ice storme snow and several weeks of heavy rain in northern Washington and the 20' dome is working Great. We're real happy.

Tanya Little


Blue Water Kayaking
We got one of your 18' Yurt Domes and just love it.

It worked great in the winds of costal Baha and want to get another to use as a cook tent for our trips into costal Point reyes


The yurts that make up Dawntree Studio are approaching their second summer now.  Still look good.
Still dry and tight.  Get a bit warm in the afternoons-   so we make sculpture mornings and evenings and do our gardening and nap afternoons.
-Henry Mitchell


 

Hi! My name is Adam. I bought and 18' dome from you guys for use at Burning Man last year. I am considering going back this year but I need to make a few
improvements and I would like some suggestions.

I do have a question. Am I e-mailing Robert? Whomever this would concern I would like to say thanks for all your help last year.
Everything went fairly well at Burning Man. The dome easily withstood a whole day of a dust storm.

Here's a photo from Burning Man. The person pictured is not me...

 

 

I have a question about those thin rip-stop strips at the bottom of each door. What exactly are they for? Is it recommended that it be removed by the owner like a
mattress tag or does it serve a greater purpose that I am not aware of?

The strips at the door bottoms are to maintain the distance between the bottom of the doors . You can cut one or more but before you stake out your dome make sure the door bottom opening distance is what it is with the strip is in place.


I have bent up a couple of my PVC pipes thru wear-and-tear. I've measured the PVC pipes for my 18' dome and they are 56.5". On your web site it says they are 57" which is the correct value that I should use if I I wish to make few more spare PVC pipes and exactly what kind of PVC should I use?

56.5" and it is schedule 200.

I need a floor! I've read about the ordering the floor but I am curious about how and where the grip clips will attach to the inside of the dome walls...

They tie into the 12 clips at the inside base of the dome. You can use a tarp for a floor.

I was curious about adding a porch to the dome but what i'd really like is something more like a vestibule or something that could act more like an airlock
into the dome. The key idea here is to minimize "burning man dust" from getting inside the dome.

You could use a tarp with Grip Clips to do this.

The two main problems that I had with the dome were the amount of dust the got inside over the whole week (possibly unavoidable) and getting cooked in the dome
as the morning sun rose. I would attribute the latter to a lack of ventilation (i did not insert the short tubes into the shingles to allow for hot air to escape, my stupidity)
as well as a lack of a secondary sunshade.

Sun shades and ventilation should help a lot. You can use ours or get sunshade cloth from a building supply store.

Does adding a sunshade inhibit dome ventilation?

No.

How does the sunshade attach to the exterior of the dome?

It is tied to the clips on the dome.

Will it blow off?

It should not. However in extreme wind you may wish to take it down.

You recommended a greenhouse-type shade cloth to be used as a sunshade. I've also read about something kn