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Do you have dome packages that come with sunshield stakes cord?
How much do your sunshields go for (for the 30' yurtdome).
What about replacement clips?
Howabout a whole new set of PVC?
10% of cost of dome
What do you sell/recommend for stakes?
On Mar 10, 2009
The 20' dome uses the same diameter poles as the 18' but longer so not as stiff. Also the 20' presents more area to the wind than the 18' since it is bigger. Thus it is weaker. The 30' uses a larger diameter pole, is only a 1' taller than the 20' and is more streamlined. The 20' is still a strong dome that has been used on wilderness outings just not our strongest. Always take small backpacking tents also in case you get hit with a big storm for backup. Read our online manual carefully : http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html paying close attention to the sections dealing with wind.
If all you have are rocks use a heavy cord (at least 3/8") to run from the dome's 12 anchor clips to 12 large rocks. Then pile up rocks on top of these rocks. Best to over do this than under do it.
On Mar 3, 2009
Bob, three nights ago, while I was away, we had high wind, with snow and sleet, and my two yurts, which have served as my studio since 2003 collapsed under the ice and snow accumulation. Frame members were snapped, panels were ripped, it was a mess. Unfortunately, there was no heat in the structures, which would have prevented any ice and snow buildup. I think they would have survived the wind, as they have withstood worse on more than one occasion. However, the yurts have outlived their designed lifespan by several years, so I have no complaints. By noon today, I had one of them up again. With some further patching, it will be a functioning shelter for my work for awhile yet. Still, I think it is time to seriously think about replacements. Do you have any designs in the works for a structure that might have more weight-bearing capability?
Sorry to hear of your snow and sleet collapse. Your recovery was compromised by the age of the covering; most often just poles snap without any tear in the covering. The poles are inexpensive to replace just being PVC. Still, 6 years, as you point out is not bad.
To increase load bearing is tricky. The way the domes are provided the weakest link are the poles. See: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html for two ideas of ways to beef up some of your poles. If we made the poles stronger, the covering would go first, which would definitely be worst. Poles are cheep and or easy to repair (just insert a section of branch). At an additonal substantial expense in weight, cost and bulk, the covering could also be beefed up also. But by doing this the structure could no longer be put up by one person without tools.
On Mar 5, 2009
I have done it but I had help in the past and would not want to try it again by myself. I would get at least one, preferably two other strong people to help. It is a work out. -Bob
On Mar 1, 2009
It is hard for me to know if our domes are just what you need. The size you mention our 8' dome is our smallest dome and I would be concerned that it would be too small for a family. Our domes do well in most winds but not so if the wind is extreme. You can roll up one side: http://www.shelter-systems.com/arch-domes.html but this is not just like the ones you have. Here are some customer photos: http://www.shelter-systems.com/yurt-dome-testimonials.html If you decide to get one or more of our domes do consider sunshades: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html You might also want to look at our manual: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html
On Feb 28, 2009:
I am looking at getting the 30' dome, and I'm wondering if its posible to put some kind of track lighting in it for night time use. Also, how much weight can it support? I want to hang things in it. Thank you
At each of the pole crossing on the dome is a clip. At these same clips there is a clip on the inside of the dome that has 2 holes from which you can hang approximately 10 lb..
On Feb 26, 2009:
I want to clip a bedsheet and separate mattress cover to the bed frame, both to keep the sheet and cover from slipping off the mattress and to hold the mattress in place on the bedframe. It tends to slide off the flat platform. Is this an application for your general purpose clip?
If you are going to attach both the sheet and mattress cover at the same time: my guess would be GP. You should be able to hold that mattress in place if you apply enough tension.
On Feb 27, 2009
Grip Clip Pro vs. HD
I'm planning to use Grip Clips for shade structures here in windy New Mexico. I like the fastening options provided by the Pro. Is it as heavy duty as the Heavy Duty? Or would your recommend the HD for a high stress application?
They can best be used in combination. The HD holds better in strong wind. The Pro is best if you need to directly attach to a frame.
Subject: Re: Event Domes...
I will answer your questions below.
On Feb 20, 2009
The walls of the dome make good projection screens with the images clear and bright inside and out. We do offer our covering also by the yard if you wanted to hang your own screen inside: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html
Also, how long does it take to set up a 30 feet diameter dome? How many people working?
The 30' set up requires two strong people about 45 min to an hour.
What is the maximum weight we can hung from its structure?
You can hang about 10 lb.. from each of the clips inside the pole crossings.
What about floor? Do you have something practical? Should we make a wooded floor?
We offer a tarp floor: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html You can put a rug on it. Also see our manual: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html
What do you usually do about heating and cooling?
See our manual: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html You can add stoves and air conditioning units.
Do you have tested it for safety? Is it according to some regulations we can quote here, because we intent to use it for schools as well, and we need to show some sort of certification that this structure is safe, will not fall, will not catch fire, have emergency exits, etc.
Please read our wind and snow warnings: http://www.shelter-systems.com/warning.html We can provide you with a certificate that attests to our covering meeting fire retarded ratings. The 30' dome has 8 doors.
On Feb 21, 2009
Answers to your questions in your text below:
Hello Eleanor and Bob,
I love your shelter domes. I would like to use one as a "cabin in the desert."
.....You should consider our sun shades: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html for desert use. Be sure to read our wind and snow warnings: http://www.shelter-systems.com/warning.html
I have a few questions about them.
Are you currently having any sales or discounts?
.....No, we do not offer discounts, This allows us to keep our prices low to everybody.
What is the cost of replacing the material on a 31' dome?
.....Replacement cover with clips attached and no poles is 10% less then cost of full dome.
How quickly can you get a 31' dome to me?
.....We try to keep everything in stock. If we do not have it may take a week or two to ship your order: check with the order desk.
Can I use a pre hung door?
.....This should be possible but I have not done it. You would have to cut and fit: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html
Do they have 4 doors?
Can I have fewer?
.....We can make a special order dome with less, yes.
It is for a desert application (Tucson). I need as much ventilation as possible but I need screens to keep out the scorpions. Is this possible?
....We make net doors for the dome: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html These are flap style and may not prevent all critters from access.
It appears I can add windows, but do they need to be adjacent to the door and done at your factory?
Can I add mesh ventilation in the top with a flap to close in the winter?
....This should be possible but we have not heard of people doing this.
Would Thermoshield paint increase the longevity of the material, or are the two not compatible?
....I am not familiar with this product. You should test it first.
Is the material polyester?
....No, it is a woven multi laminate proprietary covering that is UV stabilized and FR.
Thank you for your time,
Date: February 3, 2009
I just have a few questions regarding a couple of things.
Most of your pics seem to be of your yurt-dome design.
We are wondering if the star-dome design on the sales page (other shelters) are illustrated by the picture in the testimonials page sent in by robertw - what he calls the great circle design.
Is this the same design?
Basically, we are having trouble as all pics seem to be of your popular yurt-dome design.
We are interested in the design sent in by robertw - on the testimonials page, or possibly any similar geometric designs that you do incorporating hex and pent geometries.
Is the height measurement the same for this star design.
Also, if you can provide a 18 or 20 foot star-dome design (if it is the same as the pic by robertw), what would be the approximate waiting time, cost and shipping cost to the UK.
Thanks, I hope I am being clear with my questions.
Great work by the way, your domes all seem very well made and very beautiful.
I looking forward to hearing from you,
We not longer make the star design. It was substantially weaker and had other problems. The Yurt Domes are geodesic. Nor do we make the hex/pent design at this time. One reason we now make the YurtDomes is that they give the most volume and strength for the amount of materials used. Thus they have a smaller carbon foot print and cost less then the other designs.
You don't know me but you've heard from my father Xavier de Prémonville, who gave me your address for me to get in touch with you.
Thanks in advance for your help, and for your wonderful creations.
All the best,
Marie de Prémonville
Have a look at http://www.shelter-systems.com/yurt-dome-testimonials.html
The 14' seems 1/2 the size of the 18'. Most are much happier with the 18' over the 14' if you have the space for it. You might also look at: http://www.shelter-systems.com/sizes.html
The 14' is just 7' high in the very center and the 18' is 9' high.
On Jan 6, 2009
On Jan 4, 2009
I have a coated nylon tarp. Do I go with the light fabric clip or the general purpose clip? Does it matter? It wouldn't matter if I bought the general purpose clip would it?
Thanks for your reply,
Subject: Re: ? about which clips
The General Purpose Grip Clip would need to be backed with some blue tarp material to grip a light weight nylon tarp. The reason is that the thickness of the nylon tarp is too thin. The Light Fabric Grip Clip may be just right but if you are talking about silcloth you will need a gasket make from a balloon even with the Light Fabric Grip Clip: see: http://shelter-systems.com/gripclips/ultra-light-silicon-tarps.html
On Jan 3, 2009
I discovered your site last summer and my family and I have been considering your products for a possible purchase in the summer.
First question: Are colors other than white available? Or, perhaps, could I paint it?
Second question: How often would we expect to need replacing the fabic if we were to use a yurtdome for a permanent residence?
Third question: how high of sustained winds can a 20' yurtdome take if the skeleton is properly anchored?
Fourth (and final) question: is there any way a through fitting like those used on more conventional yurts could be installed for use with a stove pipe? What about some sort of fitting for use through the shingling? (I did read the part on how to do it through the door.)
We only use white. Some customers have painted there domes I do not know how well the results were. You should test your paint first.
The live of the covering depends on the amount of sun that falls on the YurtDome. The covering has be tested in FL and AZ were it lasted 3+ years. We guarantee materials and workmanship for 1.5 years.
We do not recommend our shelters for areas of extreme or constant winds. The vibration will cause the dome to fail.
Since the poles follow the shingling you cannot install a stove pipe through the shingling as it would cause the pole at that location to melt. You can exit a stove pipe through the near midpoint of a panel if great care is taken to prevent the covering from melting. Use insulated pipe and cut your exit hole larger than the diameter of your pipe (size of this hole is critical) so that flowing air around your pipe will keep it from melting your dome's covering. You must support and hold the pipe centered in this hole.
On Jan 1, 2009
We have joined two domes together in the past however some strength is loss and the dome/s are complicated in that a gutter needs to be created were the domes are joined.
Here is a photo near the top of the dome. The domes can be truncated and joined at the pole arches. We have not joined three but this would seem possible but again at a loss of strength.
I cannot recommend joining for your project but it may work. If you do give it a try let me know how it turns out and send photos.
I would also suggest you to make a model by cutting and joining three dome models: http://www.shelter-systems.com/modle.html
Here you can see two 20' domes joined. A fabric gutter is hung on the inside of the junction that directs water to the outside of the dome. If I was to do it again I would double up the junction poles for more strength.
Date: December 29, 2008 1:10:50 PM PST
I purchased a Yurt Dome 14' Extra Strong. By any chance, do you have a bag that I can use to transport the tent? If not, do you have a vendor you could recommend?
We do not make bags for the domes, as it is not possible to Stuff a dome into a bag, of reasonable size, because the covering we use is too stiff. We could sell her a 12' by 6' strip, or longer, of our fabric http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html she could roll the dome in and then tape or tie it (perhaps you thew out the warper that the dome came in).
Date: December 30, 2008
I purchased a Yurt Dome 14' Extra Strong ib 11/17/2008. By any chance, do you have a bag that I can use to transport the tent? If not, do you have a vendor you could recommend?
We do not make bags for the domes, as it is not possible to Stuff a dome into a bag, of reasonable size, because the covering we use is too stiff. We can sell you a 12' by 6' strip, or longer, of our fabric she could roll and tape or tie your dome in (perhaps you thew out the warper that the dome came in).
Date: December 9, 2008
Subject: Custom application
We make solariums using our greenhouse covering: http://www.shelter-systems.com/solarium.html and our greenhouses can also be set up in the "Open Arch Form" http://www.shelter-systems.com/arch-domes.html which you could but up to your house.
We sell our Greenhouse Fabric and our Grip Clips: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html
On Dec 1, 2008
It is the sun that degrades the YurtDome's covering. Our Coverings have been tested in FL and AZ intense sun were it has lasted 3+ years. We guarantee it for 1.5 years since elevation also effects the aging of the covering. In Costa Rica my guess is you would have them in the shade (?) This should help increase the covering life. Water or dampness will not degrade the YurtDome's covering. It will not rot or mildew.
The dome is made without sewing so there is no needle holes to leak. The domes' covering is shingled with an overlap of 5". We offer net doors and sticky velcro to secure them: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html You might also want to consider sunshades on this page if your yurtdomes are to be in full sun.
My guess is 4 could sleep in the 20'. Look at: http://www.shelter-systems.com/sizes.html Mark a circle on the ground and put your beds etc. in the circle to see what you think. The interior is dividable; see: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html
Shelter System's Yurt Domes can be easily divided into rooms with fabric you provide or some of the same woven ripstop material that Shelter Systems' makes it Yurt Domes out of.
First, get enough fabric. If you plan to divide your dome in half get or sew a 6' wide piece with a length equal to the diameter of your Yurt Dome. If you plan to divide your dome in quarters then get two pieces this size. Purchase 7 Grip Clips to attach your fabric if you are dividing your dome in half. Purchase 14 Grip Clips to attach your fabric if you are dividing your dome in quarters.
Fold the divider in half length wise and make a small mark at the fold on the edge. If you are dividing your dome in quarters lay out both dividers on on top of each fold in half and make a small mark the top and bottom edge at the fold. Open out the divider(s). If dividing your dome in half attach one clip at the edge mark "E. If dividing in quarters then attach a clip at "E" and "F" clipping the two dividers together at the center fold.
Next attach a clip point to point "A" on the divider and tie it to the dome's ground clip which is equal distance between two adjacent doors. Stretch divider across dome and attach a clip at the other point "A" on the divider so that when the divider is tensioned and tied to the dome's ground clip it will stretch tight across the floor of the dome. Have two people hold up and tension the divider so points "B" can be marked, clipped and tied. Run a cord up clip "E" and tie it to the top of the dome to support the middle of the divider. Have two people hold up and tension the divider so points "C" can be marked, clipped and tied to the dome at points "D". Move the clips on the divider if needed so that the divider is tensioned evenly.
If you are dividing your dome into quarters the first tension and tie your four way divider so as to divide the dome in half then pull out and tension and tie the quarter sections.
Note that once installed each divided space has two doors. If the divider is set up as above each 1/4 side will have 1doors.
You can make the divider in half sections that are clipped in the middle with two tie clips down the joined edge. There is two advantages to this configuration. One is that it saves some fabric since we can cut two halves so that one is flipped and nestled next to the other. The other advantage is that the tied closed seam could act as a door to get from one half to the other.
On Nov 28, 2008
Hi Max and Laura
The only difference between our Domes and our Yurt Domes is the name. Our domes are like the original Yurts in Mongolia: portable and light weight. Our domes use state of the art patented geodesic and tensegrity engendering: http://www.shelter-systems.com/tensegrity.html
The standard US made Yurts use very bulky and heavy components and take hours to days to put up. Our Yurt Domes should hold up well in your conditions.
Our standard White Shelter Covering would be best for you.
We ship world wide and have most of our shelters in stock (check our order desk for details}.
On Nov 24, 2008
I have an Endless Pool set into a 19’x24’ deck. I live outside of Boston, Massachusetts. I would like to put something over the pool and deck that would cut down on the heat loss from the pool and possibly also make the area around it a bit warmer so that it is not so brutal to get out of the pool. My ideal would be something I could see through so I can still enjoy being out side. I only plan on using the cover in the winter.
I was looking at your 20’ pool cover. My concerns are whether it will stand up to Massachusetts snow and winters; and how opaque it is or whether it can have wondows.
Subject: Re: Pool Cover
Not sure; the domes are strong and tough but are still tents (light weight and portable). You would need to heat it when snowing to melt snow off as it accumulates. The domes can fail in extreme winds. Read our wind and snow warnings.
Now on the other hand, if they do fail, usually only a few poles brake and they are inexpensive to replace (PVC).
The covering of our standard pool covers lets light through like frosted glass or wax paper. More light pass through than glass but you cannot see through it but if you hold your hand right up against it you can see it. We can make the your cover of our white shelter covering which is optically something like a sheet of paper. See the bottom of page:
On Nov 19, 2008,
Please see our online manual:
for info on floors of all kinds.
After you have looked at this info let me know if you have other questions.
November 10, 2008
Air conditioning units can be installed by cutting and taping ducts through walls.
You can install a stove as we describe in our manual: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html
Keep all flames and heat away from your dome's covering and other objects in your dome. If possible have your stove pipe come out the back of your stove and pass through the plywood wall. If your stove pipe exits your stove at the top then place an elbow as close to your stove as possible.
Attach a horizontal section of pipe to this elbow and pass this pipe through the wall such that it will slant slightly down towards the outside. This will keep rain from following the pipe and dripping inside your dome. We recommend using insulated stovepipe throughout. Place an elbow on the outside. Attach a vertical pipe on the outside pipe and a spark arrester cap on top. Use steel wire to support and stabilize the pipe outside the dome. Loop it around the elbow so it lifts and supports the weight of the horizontal pipe. Another wire will be needed around the vertical pipe to keep it upright and stable in the wind. Tie the other ends of the wires to the dome and or attach them to wooden poles driven into the ground. The wires should be tight enough to lift the horizontal pipe so that it is centered through the hole in the wall and not touching the fabric. Local codes may require other installation procedures.
Carefully follow the instructions given with your heater. It is best if you can get a vented heater so that combustibles are expelled from your dome. When a fuel is burn it produces water vapor which will add to the dampness of your space; and carbon dioxide which can suffocate you if you were in an airtight room. The other reason is the fumes which the heater produces can smell and if burnt incompletely produce carbon monoxide (this not the carbon dioxide we mention above but more dangerous and can kill you. Now there are heaters which claim to be safe with out being vented. Read and follow their directions.
Stove installation jacks and floor liners should match your stove: see the following sources. These should be sewn by hand into the domes covering at a height to match your stove.
For cooling we also suggest you get a Sun Shade:
On Nov 6, 2008
Bob, Are the covers strong enough to ‘bridge’ across a waterfall area? We have an upper and a lower pond with a waterfall at one end of the upper pond and a tapered ‘rapids’ at the other end, both emptying into the same lower pond. A cover over the lower pond would have no support for a space of about 7 t 8 feet where it passes in front of the two falls. We only have fish in the lower pond which is what we would like to cover. We live in southern Minnesota (Hastings) and keeping the ice open all winter for gas escape is our concern. We do NOT run the waterfalls in the winter, but we have been running a smaller pump with the flow piped out of the skimmer inlet box right at the surface of the water to keep it agitated enough to postpone freezing over. We also keep a floating tank heater opposite the skimmer to allow ‘flushing’ of gasses from under the ice. I think that a 25 foot cover would give me enough coverage to be able to have a heater under the cover at one side of the pond.
I do not think you should have trouble spanning 8' with the 25' cover. If needed you could attach the free hanging edge to a 2"x4" . The domes and covers are freestanding, can be picked up and moved with a few people and have a stiffness and flexibility that would work in your favor. You would need to have a heater to melt snow off the dome during a storm but it sounds like you have thought of this. Yes, the 25' is the top of the 30 and 31. Let me know if you have other questions. If you decide to use one please send a photo.
Date: November 1, 2008
Subject: Hi Eleanor and Bob
........Yes: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html If you plan to patch it you can sew on a patch over the damaged area (use scrap from your wrapper- or we can send you scrap at the cost of shipping). Alternatively the whole panel can be replaced. Glue or tape is not strong enough.
We also need some spare tubing for all 3 sizes as some are a little too bent and a couple have snapped...
You can buy class 200 PVC at many irrigation supply companies or cut to length poles from us: http://www.shelter-systems.com/accessories.html
We never recieved any spare poles for the 2 smaller ones (or any spare material either?)
.........The 14 18 and 20' domes come with 4 "door" poles that mostly only one is used, the other 3 can be used as spares. You can use the material the dome was wrapped in to make patches. We can also send you scrap material for the cost of shipping (talk to the order desk)
I realised that the poles come from Italy and get shipped to you and then back to us. Thats too much shipping really and since we are closer to the source, ... can we order that directly?
........I was not aware that our poles were made in Italy. Surely if you have class 200 or 125 get your poles locally. See above
Are there stronger versions of the poles that stand up better to the wind? It is a bit of a problem when its windy, a little scary when you have 100 people on the dancefloor and a lighting and sound instalation that is not so easy to move....
We do not recommend the domes be used in extreme wind. You can strengthen the poles some what: see : http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html But in strong wind other parts of you dome can be over stressed.
On a tecnical level,
........You can unclip on of the clips that holds the strip and reattach the clip to the dome. You should however when staking out your dome use the strip to measure the span of the door opening at the base.
How do you set up the entrance thing? We couldnt work it out.
........I think you are talking about the "open arch"? see: http://www.shelter-systems.com/lighthouse-manual.html Setting up you dome with the open arch does weaken the dome however and present a catchment to the wind.
Open Arch Form of your Yurt Dome
To open the arch on the Bubble Dome: The Bubble Dome has only one door there for you will need to remove two clips to simulate another door along the arch away from the existing door and then reattach them with their connectors to the dome's side (this is so that the arch pole can be reinserted). Now the covering under the arch is free to be rolled and tied up.
To set the 31 up in the open arch form. Put the dome up and stake it out. Un-stake the stakes between two adjacent doors. Remove the poles under the arched pole that connects the two doors. Un clip the "door strip" at the base of these two doors by removing a clip to the side of each door. Replace the clip so it will not get lost. Attach 2 to 3' long cords to the inside of each of ghe clips along the arch. Have several people help you to roll up tight and hold the dome's covering under the arch. Using the long cords tie the rolled up covering to the out side clips along the arch.
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